WORDS  Blake Rosen

There’s been a lot of talk in recent months about Stone Brewery setting up their casks in Alabama. California-based Stone wants an east-of-the- Mississippi hub, but in addition to a brewery, Stone wants their eastern base to feature a retail store that sells product directly to the consumer for off-site consumption. New bills have been sponsored in both the Alabama House (HB 581) and Senate (SB 439) in an attempt to bring to Alabama what is projected by Stone to be $100 million dollars in revenue by their fourth year in operation.This seems like a no brainer. A perfect fit for the ever growing craft brewing industry in our state. But is it?

To better understand the current dilemma, first one has to understand distribution laws in the state of Alabama. The 21st Amendment repealed Prohibition in 1933 and ushered in what has become known as the three tier system of beer, liquor, and wine distribution. As the person responsible for ordering beer for TRUE Restaurant, I do not call Tripp Collins at Back Forty in Gadsden to order my beer. I call Mackenzie at Bama Bud. Tripp is the producer (the first tier), Mackenzie is the distributor (the second tier) and I am the third tier - the point of sale. In this model the consumer never deals directly with the producer. This system was set up to control or limit the public consumption of alcohol in cautious, post-Prohibition America.

As a consumer, one can go to Railyard Brewing Company and sit down to have a pint, but under current Alabama legislation, one cannot purchase a six pack to-go. HB 581 and SB 439 would like to change that. This should be great news for everyone! But there is one major catch. The bills proposed only exempt breweries that produce in excess of 25,000 barrels of beer annually. That is an unreachable number for any current craft brewer in Alabama. The attempt to change the law is an enticement for a large out of state company, but the legislation comes at the expense of the brewers that built Alabama’s beer industry from the ground up.

The Alabama Brewers Guild (ABG) has rightfully spoken out against HB 581 and SB 439, and in a surprising turn of events, so has Stone Brewery. In a statement the Chief Operating Officer of Stone Brewery explained that the company “supports legislation that benefits all craft brewers,” a direct shot at the Alabama legislature. Proposals for possible sites for the east coast brewery location were due March 15 and no comments have been made as to who submitted paperwork or if any one site has an upper hand over another. That being said, one has to respect Stone Brewery’s mentality. Even though they are the 10th largest craft brewery in the country, they have no intention of having the rules changed for them to the detriment of the smaller breweries. While they want to compete against the other craft breweries in their new location, they demand competition on a level playing field.

So what does this all mean for the state of craft brewing in Alabama? Having the clout of a company with the resources of Stone Brewery on the side of the ABG is a big step in the right direction. Anyone who has lived here and enjoyed a non-domestic beer during the last ten years remembers the early struggles of groups like Free the Hops who were instrumental in changing the laws allowing for higher gravity products and the ability to brew beer in the state of Alabama. It was an uphill fight to say the least. Getting national attention as a possible location for the east coast Stone site pushes the hand of legislators to rethink antiquated laws regarding the production and distribution of beer.

The Alabama Brewers Guild struggles daily with blue laws that are no longer in tune with how Alabamians want to consume their products. While Stone Brewery and the ABG may appear to be strange bedfellows - competing against each other for market share while fighting together for equality under the law - in the world of craft beer, it truly is the more the merrier.
Stone Brewery beer can be purchased at Filet and Vine in Cloverdale and is distributed locally by International Wines.

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WORDS Will Abner

Many of us have seen it at some point in our lives, that mystical jar of liquid that a “friend of a friend” got for you. We pass it around, smell it, laugh and exclaim “Now that’s real ‘shine!” Now that we’re in the heat of Summer, these treats are as easy to spot as a bare footed kid in Walmart.  But what exactly do you do with it?

By now you’ve most likely also gotten your hands on something called “Apple Pie” - a classic mix of alcohol, cider, cinnamon, and juice. However, I am not particularly fond of apple juice or anything apple flavored so the Apple Pie method of cutting the alcohol really isn’t my favorite. Not that I’m a bootleg liquor junkie or anything, but I am always on the lookout for new methods of cutting moonshine to make it palatable.

Inspiration struck me when an Italian friend of mine told me about Limoncello a few years ago. Sweet, refreshing and tart, this Italian digestivo has been a cultural staple of Southern Italy for centuries. Usually made by steeping lemon peel in a vodka-type of spirit, we could give it a little Southern twist by using homemade grain alcohol instead. Going off the recipe my Italiano amico described, I searched online to fill the gaps that were lost in translation. There are dozens of recipes available, all with their own variations so I just threw my hands up and decided to take my own path.

I’ve made a few batches of limoncello in my time, each more successful than the other. It’s fun to experiment and try to find a balance between the sugar, water, lemon, and alcohol. Whether you use alcohol from a “friend of a friend”, high proof vodka, or just plain old Everclear, it all should work just about the same. There’s no exact science to this but here is what I have found works best:

Serves: hard to say, but it makes 1 liter of fine spirit.
Warning: The limoncello process takes over 90 days prep time due to steeping. Make well in advance and stock up!

Ingredients:
1 liter alcohol
dozen lemons (Sorrento is preferred, but whatever the store has will work - just don’t use Meyer as you need more acidity)
2 cups sugar
2.5 cups filtered water (for simple syrup)

Recipe:
1. Zest or peel the lemons after giving them a good wash. Make sure not to use any white pith.
2. Combine the lemon peel and alcohol. (You may have to split the mixture into separate bottles. I prefer cork or swing top caps.)
3. Let the mixture steep for 45 days in a dark & cool location.
4. Filter the alcohol from the zest using coffee filters. Patience is key. Set aside.
5. To make the simple syrup: combine water and sugar over medium heat until the sugar is fully dissolved and the liquid becomes “syrupy.” Cool, then add to the alcohol and let steep for another 45 days.
6. Repeat with another good filtering. Throw it all in the freezer and hold off for another week before letting your friends sample.

Limoncello is best served right from the freezer on a hot summer night after a big meal. Also compliments pools, docks, and freshly mowed lawns.
Suggested Limoncello Cocktails: Sidecar, Limencollo Collins, Champagne Limoncello

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CategoriesDrink

Call him “a living iPod of drink lore and recipes” (The New York Times) or “a crazy, bearded Civil War general” (Conan O’Brien), David Wondrich is the world’s foremost expert on the history of the American cocktail. 

Whether writing and editing for The New York Times, Esquire, Saveur, Bon Appetit, Gourmet, or countless national publications, David has helped revive and propel cocktail culture to the forefront as a new American hobby. MADE met with David in Atlanta and spoke about drinks, life, and his new book “Imbibe! From Absinthe Cocktail to Whiskey Smash, a Salute in Stories and Drinks to Professor Jerry Thomas, Pioneer of the American Bar.” 

Photo: Doron Gild

Photo: Doron Gild

David, we’ve read your bio and the life you’ve led looks like something out of a movie. When did you discover your love for the cocktail? It could have been when I was about 8 or 9 and bought a plastic GI Joe-scale cocktail kit at a street market in Sicily (my father was half Sicilian and we used to spend time over there when I was a kid). I had my guys behind the bar with the shaker. Or it could have been later, when I was drinking in old-man bars in NYC because they were all I could afford. A gin martini was your best bang for the buck and didn’t get you dirty looks from the bartender.

Were you really a process server for a mob lawyer? I was indeed. Crazy job. They used to send me to the bank with tens of thousands of dollars. I was 20 or 21 then, and right next to the bank was the Airline Ticket Office, where all the airlines had counters. Very tempting, but then again, it was mob money.

In the cocktail world you’ve been dubbed “the godfather”. Who inspires you the most to continue in the field? Dale DeGroff has always set the example for me for how to do this – unfailingly pleasant and hospitable, with a permanent curiosity and, above all, a sense of humor.

When you are creating, do you do this in your office? Home? Or do you have a favorite bar? I don’t have a home bar, since my house is quite old and they didn’t do that sort of thing back then. I use the kitchen like everyone else.

For the novice cocktail enthusiast, what’s the most important part of the cocktail? Great liquor, mixers, following the recipe exactly?

I’m a firm believer in practicing the basic techniques until you’ve got an easy mastery before getting all creative. Learn to use a Boston shaker (the kind with the glass and the tin), to stir properly (much harder than it looks) and to measure everything accurately. Then master a few (5 or 10) bedrock classics. Everyone will be happy to have you at their parties.

Do you have a favorite spirit? Rye whiskey. And cognac. And rum. And mezcal. Can’t forget gin. Ok, no.

Have you ever made a cocktail for a person and you were completely star struck? If so, whom? I made a cocktail for Jacques Pepin once, the great French-American chef. It was the house cocktail from Le Pavillon, the French restaurant in New York where he got his American start in the 1950s. He hated it.

You’ve researched cocktails across the world. Is there a particular region that you find the most interesting? Cuba is fascinating, as is New Orleans and (for Punch) the UK. But to me no place is more fascinating for its drinking history than New York City, where I live. Very convenient.

We’re here in Montgomery – any great Alabama recipes we should know about? I don’t know any off the top of my head beyond the Alabama Slammer, with which I messed up my youth. This tells me I’m either getting forgetful or I’ve got to do more research. The Deep South is tough for old cocktail recipes because the newspapers weren’t so chatty about such things as the northern ones and there was much less of a publishing industry, so there were far fewer cocktail books.

What’s your favorite summertime cocktail? The Daiquiri, made the original Cuban way by stirring a barspoon of superfine sugar into the juice of half a lime, adding 2 ounces of flavorful, imported white rum, shaking it up viciously with lots of ice and straining it into a champagne coupe. Most refreshing thing ever.

Best spot or dish to eat in the whole world? Right now, I wish I had an arancino – a fried, stuffed rice ball – from Savia, in Catania, Sicily. I’d settle, though, for a plate of red beans and rice at the Napoleon House in New Orleans, as long as I had a Sazerac with it.

 

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May is the time for packing a hamper with sandwiches, salads, and of course wine - and heading for the great outdoors. Warm weather and sunshine call for something fresh and exciting. This pick will have you wishing the picnic party would never stop.  

Château des Annibals Cuvee Suivez moi Jeune Homme Rose
This rosé is soft pink with a nose full of harmonious white peach aromas. Both light and delicate, this rosé is quite refreshing with a good lasting finish in the mouth. Grenache 40%, Cinsaut 60 %
Enjoy this rosé all summer long by itself or with grilled gulf fish, melon, or chilled salads. Available at Michael's Table or Derk's Filet & Vine.

Laura Lee Blackwood, Grassroots

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