WORDS Katie Vega
When you mix passionate Panamanian culture and convivial Southern hospitality, Chef Leo is what you get. Born into a large Latin/Italian family, Leo moved to Daphne, Alabama at the age of 11 from Panama, where he began working in professional kitchens at the age of 14. Chef Leo holds a degree in Hotel Management from Auburn University and has no formal culinary training (one of my favorite things about him). When I asked him how he does it, how he knows what to mix with what to create his masterpieces, he simply answered with this: "Ya just gotta take risks".
ON LIVING IN THE SOUTH: He puts it impeccably, comparing the South to an Indie band. You know when you find an incredible Indie band that is underrated and overlooked and you want to tell every single person about the band because they are so good, but there's a part of you that wants to keep it to yourself, as if it was your newborn child? That's how Chef Leo feels about about Alabama. Genius.
ON EATING LOCAL: The obvious is pointed out: it supports the local economy, is more nutritious, and it provides loyalty to our colleagues. But it was Leo's deeper dip that sent me into an aha moment. He yearns to preserve the farm to table heritage for his four-year-old son and refuses to allow it to become "the good ole days". Couldn't have said it better myself, Chef.
ON CHALLENGES FACED AS A CHEF IN THE SOUTH: The South is assumed to be a close-minded society, and some of this fault is still evident in our culture, even when it comes to food. To introduce new suggestions, Chef Leo progresses them into the menu incrementally and holds events like Leo's Table. For occasions like Leo's Table, he removes the freedom of choice so patrons are forced to explore outside of their norm, opening their minds (and mouths) to whole new world of culinary experiences.
ON PLACES TO GO: Chef Leo resides in Auburn, Alabama and when he isn't working, he enjoys spending his time at home with his wife and son. On the occasional night out, Leo enjoys dining at TRUE in Montgomery, ACRE in Auburn, and Springhouse on Lake Martin. The Maurelli family also enjoys hanging out at Overall Company in Opelika and Chewacla State Park in Auburn.
HIS GUILTY PLEASURES: Ham and Cheese Hot Pockets with Sriracha, cheesy 80s music (his exact words: "I can get down on that shit"), and Taylor Swift.
ESSENTIAL KITCHEN TOOLS: Mom's spoons, sea salt, cracked black pepper, garlic, and extra virgin olive oil.
THE PERFECT DINNER PARTY: Chef Leo would love to discuss creative processes with Salvador Dali, Picasso, and Beethoven. What would they eat? Easy. Mom's meatballs.
CRAZIEST THING EVER EATEN: Lamb testicles. He insisted he was not a fan.
The fact that Chef Leo is one of the nicest, most genuine people I've ever met makes me like his food even more. Knowing the passion and excitement that goes into his meals is like adding an extra spice to the mix, making it more dimensional and much more desirable.
I suggest dining at Central on Friday nights for Desde el Jardin , where he uses fresh ingredients from the EAT South downtown farm to inspire the menu for the evening, ensuring a fresh, creative, and always delicious meal. But get there early, as the specials always go fast.
If you're sitting at the bar, ask Big Justin to make you a Burning Mandarin (Absolut Mandarin, cranberry, orange juice, lemon, simple syrup, and two jalapeno slices) or a Bulleit Tea (Kentucky bourbon, lemon joice, and honey syrup).
Like Chef Leo's Facebook page and follow him on Instagram (@chefleo3) to see him bring Desde el Jardin to life every Friday. Or just to bask in his culinary (and personal) life.
For more information on Leo's Table, Desde el Jardin, or Central's new fall menu, visit their website or call them at (334) 517 1155.