WORDS and PHOTOS Natilee McGruder
Having lived in Ghana, Mexico and Australia and traveled in places like Cambodia, Switzerland and Germany, I have a consistent hankering for what are considered “exotic” foods in the South. While I enjoy eating out and discovering new places with authentic cuisine, I also fancy myself a bit of an internationally inspired home cook. My main problem with recreating favorite dishes sampled throughout my travels is the hard-to-find ingredients and spices, which often remain elusive even after I’ve tapped Earth Fare and World Market – for example, I find myself spending gas, money and time journeying to Atlanta for my cherished Ethiopian ingredients.
So, it was with a profound sense of homecoming that I found what I consider to be the multi-cultural food oasis in Montgomery: tucked away in the Capitol Plaza Shopping Center off the Southern Boulevard between Woodley Road and Narrow Lane Road sits an old Winn-Dixie that has been reincarnated as the Capitol (Super) Market. Signs in Korean and Spanish welcome you to what is most definitely not the typical grocery experience in our city. Among the incredibly diverse produce section (young whole coconuts, chayote squash and thai eggplant anyone?), atypical meats and seafood and the various aisles of Latin American, African, Mexican, Caribbean and Asian food and spices, resides Ricos (meaning rich or delicious) Tacos: a 100% legit taco counter for those who crave or are curious about authentic antojitos (Mexican street food).
Initially it might seem odd that there’s a taco place in a grocery store, but if you can appreciate the long-standing culture of street vendors and food stalls in the traditional markets all around Central and Latin America (and in increasing parts the US), then you know that this makes perfect sense. While the owner of the store is Korean, Ricos Tacos is run by Gladys Chavez, a Honduran immigrant whose husband Antonio is the store’s Latino produce manager. Gladys and Antonio, who have known each other for roughly 14 years, met at the beloved Buford Farmers Market, a large international market widely revered in the Atlanta area for its global offerings that include Eastern European baked goods and mind-boggling produce, seafood and meat sections. Antonio, who hails from Mexico City, worked at the market for 15 years while Gladys, of Choluteca, Honduras, was in Atlanta for three years before the couple moved with their two children to Montgomery in May 2011.
After working for a short while in the store, Gladys was asked by the Capitol Market owner what she could cook. She replied “tacos,” and shortly after Ricos Tacos was born. Known as “the most democratic food in Mexico,” due to their mass appeal, Montgomery residents and visitors can experience several types of tacos including de pastor, carne asada, chicken, barbacoa, and lengua as well as street favorites like tamales, quesadillas, burritos, elote (corn on the cob), Mexican sodas (Jarritos brand) and horchata. There is a pandería (bakery) just to the right of the counter selling a nice selection of Mexican breads and on the weekends Gladys serves Caldo de Res, a traditional beef and vegetable soup that for me evokes my time spent in kitchens and markets in Guanajuato and Oaxaca. One of the best features of Ricos is the salsa bar that includes pickled radishes and carrots, fresh pico de gallo, onions, salsa verde, salsa rojo, chopped cilantro and lime wedges waiting for you to pile them on top of whatever inexpensive dish you choose.
As a hardworking mother and wife, one thing Gladys would like to improve in Montgomery is programs to address poverty, increasing the number of businesses of all types and expanding our public transportation offerings. As a non-driver, she sorely misses the trains, taxis and more comprehensive bus system of Atlanta. She likes the people of Montgomery and considers them to be nice and easy going; she also thinks that the police and authority figures are more conscientious in Montgomery than in Atlanta, particularly in how they interact with Latino immigrants.
When I asked Gladys what challenges she faces with Ricos Tacos, she very seriously tells me, “none.” There are a few tables in front of the counter where customers can sit and enjoy their meal and while business can be slow at times, it will generally pick up and stay at a steady pace. She welcomes many customers throughout the week whose backgrounds include American, Korean, Chinese, Mexican and Indian. Her main desire for her life is to achieve the “American Dream” which she says is what all immigrants want—to work hard and have a better life. In Honduras there is little money, so those born poor work, and work and work, and still only make just enough for their families to eat and survive. The Antonio and Gladys are recent homeowners and happy with the life they are creating here as their children go through middle school. Their plan is to work hard and live a quality life in Montgomery for many years to come.
Visit Gladys at Ricos Tacos located inside the Capitol Market at 2256 E. South Boulevard just up from Baptist South behind the Burger King. Phone: 334-294-8591. Ricos Tacos is closed on Wednesdays but open every other day of the week from 8am to 8pm. Caldo de res, menudo, tamales and caldo de camarón sold Friday-Sunday only.