Meet The Owners: MADE on Multi-Cultural Montgomery - India Palace

WORDS and PHOTOS  Natilee McGruder

February is Black History Month and I went into my most recent interview thinking about what that meant to me. As a young black female raised in Montgomery by a father who grew up in West Montgomery during the Civil Rights Movement, I have always had a strong sense of pride in what people of all colors were able to accomplish with blood, sweat, tears and prayers in our fair city. For me, the significance of any history month is the opportunity to look at our collective history, the history of humanity, colored by a particular lens, which lends us new perspective and nuance.

I have always been a reader and history lover, because early on I understood that history is simply the story of a group of people, during a certain time, that we can learn from today. Unfortunately, the weighty gift of creating the historical narrative falls to the “victor” which generally has meant: the “winner” of the war, the person who survived to tell about it or the person(s) with the access to the resources and the political power to do so. Many stories are left out and many more left virtually unexplored, as they are deemed “less” important because of the main characters, the end result, or the message it would send to the comfortable masses. Lerone Bennetts, Jr.’s, Before the Mayflower: A History of Black America should be a required text for all American students, while Howard Zinn’s,  A People’s History of the United States is an excellent example of history told with the dominant narrative turned on its head (available for you to read, free online!).

The connection between the story of India and that of Montgomery may seem to be a stretch on the surface, but, as with any history, they are connected. One such connection is Martin Luther King’s deep inspiration from Mohandas K. Ghandi and his nonviolent teachings.  King traveled to India in April 1959 after devouring Ghandi’s writings. Before he left the country he said,“[s]ince being in India, I am more convinced than ever before that the method of nonviolent resistance is the most potent weapon available to oppressed people in their struggle for justice and human dignity.”  He then brought back strategies for nonviolent resistance to the marginalized poor in the Deep South and all over the US via the Civil Rights Movement.

A more recent Montgomery-India connection is that of the recently returned restaurant, India Palace. Surat Singh, Amandeep Singh and Dr. Sandeep Virk all hail from the northwest region of India called Punjab, which is home to the world’s largest population of Sikhs. Together the men bring an incredible value to Montgomery through their commitment to quality Indian “slow food” and their adherence to the Sikh faith. Sikhs believe in equality of humankind, universal brotherhood, and one God. In the words of the founder of the Sikh religion, Guru Nanak, the “Realization of Truth is higher than all else. Higher still is truthful living.”

Truthful living is what allowed the re-opening of India Palace in Vaughn Road Plaza to be met with crowds the very first week, who, when given apologies from Sandeep regarding their wait replied, “Don’t worry. We know your food is worth the wait!” India Palace is run in partnership by Amandeep and Sandeep (who during the day is an internal medicine doctor at Jackson Hospital). The real heart of the operation, however, is in the kitchen: Amandeep’s father, Surat Singh. Surat came to the United States from India in 2001 and proceeded to cook and train as a chef in Atlanta and Tuscaloosa until he was able to open India Palace in its original location off McGhee Rd. His son, Amandeep came from India to run the restaurant with his father in 2007 and then moved again with his father when they decided to try for the greener pastures of Pensacola, Florida. After closing their Montgomery doors in 2012, they opened a successful restaurant there of the same name that still exists, but soon found themselves gravitating back to Montgomery.
In the very brief moment I was able to steal Surat away from his beloved kitchen, he explained via Sandeep that he loves the Montgomery people and that everyone is so happy they have returned.  Amandeep echoes this sentiment: “people here love the food and we could have chosen to go anywhere after Pensacola, but we chose to come back to Montgomery because of the people.”  The father and son team returned from Pensacola, partnered with Sandeep, and moved to a bigger and better location to start their new chapter in a city that has shown them so much love. Sandeep also noted that overhead costs and the cost of living in Florida made returning to Montgomery an easy decision to make.

The biggest challenge for India Palace is that many people in Montgomery have never tried Indian food and have a limited perspective on the cuisine. In his practice at Jackson, Sandeep always encourages the Indian food uninitiated to come try the lunch buffet and after some hesitation they usually do. When I asked Sandeep about his thoughts on Black History Month and whether it had any personal value to him, he said “it does matter. Everyone has their stereotypes and we need to be more involved with each other.” One thing he would change about Montgomery is the lack of opportunities to meet different kinds of people. He says that here, “people don’t mix much” and that should be changed through education at an early age and opportunities throughout the city to meet and interact with one another. These are sentiments that were true in King’s day and remain an issue for us to tackle together as one United Montgomery.

Visit Amandeep, Surat and Sandeep at India Palace located at 2801 Vaughn Plaza Road, Suite E in the Vaughn Road Plaza near the Vaughn Rd and Eastern Boulevard intersection. Phone: 334-245-9340. Closed Mondays, open every other day of the week from 11:00am to 2:30pm and 5:00pm-9:30pm, 10:00 pm on Friday and Saturday. Weekend buffet includes goat meat and gulab jamun.

Meet The Owners: MADE on Multi-Cultural Montgomery - Ricos Tacos

WORDS and PHOTOS Natilee McGruder 

Having lived in Ghana, Mexico and Australia and traveled in places like Cambodia, Switzerland and Germany, I have a consistent hankering for what are considered “exotic” foods in the South. While I enjoy eating out and discovering new places with authentic cuisine, I also fancy myself a bit of an internationally inspired home cook. My main problem with recreating favorite dishes sampled throughout my travels is the hard-to-find ingredients and spices, which often remain elusive even after I’ve tapped Earth Fare and World Market – for example, I find myself spending gas, money and time journeying to Atlanta for my cherished Ethiopian ingredients. 

So, it was with a profound sense of homecoming that I found what I consider to be the multi-cultural food oasis in Montgomery: tucked away in the Capitol Plaza Shopping Center off the Southern Boulevard between Woodley Road and Narrow Lane Road sits an old Winn-Dixie that has been reincarnated as the Capitol (Super) Market. Signs in Korean and Spanish welcome you to what is most definitely not the typical grocery experience in our city. Among the incredibly diverse produce section (young whole coconuts, chayote squash and thai eggplant anyone?), atypical meats and seafood and the various aisles of Latin American, African, Mexican, Caribbean and Asian food and spices, resides Ricos (meaning rich or delicious) Tacos: a 100% legit taco counter for those who crave or are curious about authentic antojitos (Mexican street food). 

Initially it might seem odd that there’s a taco place in a grocery store, but if you can appreciate the long-standing culture of street vendors and food stalls in the traditional markets all around Central and Latin America (and in increasing parts the US), then you know that this makes perfect sense. While the owner of the store is Korean, Ricos Tacos is run by Gladys Chavez, a Honduran immigrant whose husband Antonio is the store’s Latino produce manager. Gladys and Antonio, who have known each other for roughly 14 years, met at the beloved Buford Farmers Market, a large international market widely revered in the Atlanta area for its global offerings that include Eastern European baked goods and mind-boggling produce, seafood and meat sections. Antonio, who hails from Mexico City, worked at the market for 15 years while Gladys, of Choluteca, Honduras, was in Atlanta for three years before the couple moved with their two children to Montgomery in May 2011. 

After working for a short while in the store, Gladys was asked by the Capitol Market owner what she could cook. She replied “tacos,” and shortly after Ricos Tacos was born. Known as “the most democratic food in Mexico,” due to their mass appeal, Montgomery residents and visitors can experience several types of tacos including de pastor, carne asada, chicken, barbacoa, and lengua as well as street favorites like tamales, quesadillas, burritos, elote (corn on the cob), Mexican sodas (Jarritos brand) and horchata. There is a pandería (bakery) just to the right of the counter selling a nice selection of Mexican breads and on the weekends Gladys serves Caldo de Res, a traditional beef and vegetable soup that for me evokes my time spent in kitchens and markets in Guanajuato and Oaxaca. One of the best features of Ricos is the salsa bar that includes pickled radishes and carrots, fresh pico de gallo, onions, salsa verde, salsa rojo, chopped cilantro and lime wedges waiting for you to pile them on top of whatever inexpensive dish you choose. 

As a hardworking mother and wife, one thing Gladys would like to improve in Montgomery is programs to address poverty, increasing the number of businesses of all types and expanding our public transportation offerings. As a non-driver, she sorely misses the trains, taxis and more comprehensive bus system of Atlanta. She likes the people of Montgomery and considers them to be nice and easy going; she also thinks that the police and authority figures are more conscientious in Montgomery than in Atlanta, particularly in how they interact with Latino immigrants. 

When I asked Gladys what challenges she faces with Ricos Tacos, she very seriously tells me, “none.” There are a few tables in front of the counter where customers can sit and enjoy their meal and while business can be slow at times, it will generally pick up and stay at a steady pace. She welcomes many customers throughout the week whose backgrounds include American, Korean, Chinese, Mexican and Indian. Her main desire for her life is to achieve the “American Dream” which she says is what all immigrants want—to work hard and have a better life. In Honduras there is little money, so those born poor work, and work and work, and still only make just enough for their families to eat and survive. The Antonio and Gladys are recent homeowners and happy with the life they are creating here as their children go through middle school. Their plan is to work hard and live a quality life in Montgomery for many years to come. 

Visit Gladys at Ricos Tacos located inside the Capitol Market at 2256 E. South Boulevard just up from Baptist South behind the Burger King. Phone: 334-294-8591. Ricos Tacos is closed on Wednesdays but open every other day of the week from 8am to 8pm. Caldo de res, menudo, tamales and caldo de camarón sold Friday-Sunday only.

Meet The Owners: D'Road Cafe

MADE On Multi-Cultural Montgomery

WORDS  Natilee McGruder   PHOTO Jon Kohn

One early Wednesday morning, I meet Janet at D’Road Café, in the same shopping center as Virginia College and Mr. G’s, off the Atlanta Highway between Frazier Church and Bell Road. She greets me in Spanish as she quickly finishes mopping and then proceeds to wipe down the counters and tables. “Quieres tomar un café?” she asks me through the flurry of activity. I decline coffee and at her recommendation opt for “jugo de kiwi”, a simple smoothie with the sole ingredients being blended kiwis, ice and a dash of sugar, which tasted like the most delicious, creamy fruit smoothie. After heating up some homemade rolls for us, Janet is finally able to sit down for the interview.

    A few days away from 60 at the time of the interview, Janet Malpartida is spry and vivacious, an animated speaker who fills our lively conversation with sharp wit and laughter. She was often in trouble as a child, “for talking too much,” she confesses with a mischievous smile. When she was 12, her mother threatened to send her from their native Venezuela to the United States if she didn’t behave, and so it came to be that Janet learned Americanized English while staying with her uncle in Chicago. She stayed just long enough to learn the language and some of the culture but soon returned home after the devastating 1974 earthquake in Caracas.

    As Caracas rebuilt itself, Janet continued her studies and eventually graduated with a degree in tourism from the Instituto Universitario de Nuevas Profesiones. Her reputation as an excellent tour guide led to a colleague contacting her about an opportunity to work on a cruise ship, taking care of every need of valued passengers as they sailed around the world. She agreed and turned a two-week internship (during which that same colleague attempted to illegally pocket her pay) into 14 years of dedicated and acknowledged service aboard the Queen Elizabeth 2, a 1,777 passenger ocean liner based out of Southampton, England, with regular transatlantic service to New York as well as world cruises. Janet found her calling, taking care of her clientele while gaining an invaluable education with 64 countries visited and countless experiences gained. She was prized so highly by her employer that on the rare occasion that she took off in order to take her mother on a 42-day cruise around the Mediterranean, the top brass at headquarters refused to let her pay.

    When her husband died in a plane accident, Janet took her baby daughter to Florida where she met her current husband of 10 years. They eventually settled in Montgomery where Janet had the vision of creating a coffee shop. Her dream became more solid when her brother, who had followed the family to Montgomery a year later, agreed to do the construction for D’Road Café while his employer did the plumbing and Janet the art and decoration. At the time she set up the coffee shop two years ago, her daughter was in 8th grade and home schooled, now she is at LAMP and looking towards college. Janet figured that, “maybe if I sell this coffee, maybe it will give me enough money for my daughter’s future.”  

    One of Janet’s biggest challenges financially is to reach her capacity of 24 customers everyday for lunch and dinner. Culturally, Janet notes that people who like fried food are disappointed with her healthy home cooked fare, as are those who can’t wrap their head around the fact that neither she nor her food is Mexican. She says that some people who drop in don’t want to experience new things: they think they that since they know one “Mexican” place, they know them all. Janet uses fresh herbs and sea salt in her cooking, always buys the freshest meat and produce and tries to buy food that is organic and responsibly raised.

    After two years of surviving with no money behind her, sometimes she wants to close: a large catering order cancelled for a small operation like D’Road Café can be suicide, but Janet holds on to her unshakeable faith. Little by little she has been putting her business together, slowly adding to the menu and while she can’t say that she is currently turning a profit, all her equipment has been paid for and she makes enough to stay open.  She does not worry and she will not fear; her family and her bible class at Frazier help her to maintain her conviction to stick with her dream. Eventually she is looking to relocate to downtown or Old Cloverdale where she feels her unique offerings might be better received. She wants a better location but not necessarily a bigger space: she is determined to maintain an authentic Latin environment where she can sit and talk to her customers, get to know their favorite order and create dishes for them off the menu. As one Yelper described it, D’Road Café is like coming to your grandmother’s to eat, if your grandmother was Venezuelan.

    One thing Janet would love to see in Montgomery is more encouragement and activities for younger people. She notes that old ways are on their way out, slowly but surely, and that even though sometimes breaking into Montgomery society can be challenging when your name and parents are not legacy, she freely acknowledges that it is a much improved city compared to 10 years ago. What Janet loves about Montgomery is the peace. According to her, it’s the best place to bring your children up—you have a little taste of big city offerings, but you can still make family time because it is not all about consumerism. Sundays for her, when D’Road is closed, are family time and God time.

    Janet has several unique offerings for the city: she makes dishes from various Latin American countries such as Columbia, Chile and her husband’s native Peru. Every Friday she features a different country to invite customers on a culinary tour. The week we spoke, she branched out of Spanish speaking countries and chose Russian cuisine. No doubt her travels, diverse co-workers and clients aboard the Queen Elizabeth taught her various cooking traditions that she combines with her natural talent of making guests feel like family. For her, preparing food from scratch, with quality ingredients, no flour and no chemicals is not about being skinny or fat but the high risk of diabetes, heart attack, and other markers of poor health. Janet has no plans on leaving town any time soon, when asked how long she would stay in Montgomery she replied, “until I die.”

Visit Janet at D’Road Cafe Monday to Friday 9:00 am - 2:00 pm for breakfast and lunch, or 5:30 - 9:00 pm for dinner at 6250 Atlanta Highway (334-356-1563). Check out D’Road Café’s Facebook page for the featured country of the week on International Fridays.

MADE On Multi-Cultural Montgomery: Meet The Owners of La Coronilla

WORDS Natilee McGruder

The landscape of food in Montgomery is noticeably changing: there is Venezuelan, Jamaican, Korean, Mexican, Thai, Chinese and Indian food now available in a town where “meat and three” reigns supreme.  The food served in these restaurants acts as a gateway. For those from abroad who now call Montgomery home, the gateway opens to comfort, solace, the evocation of memories. For those from Montgomery, the restaurants are a gateway to cultural diversity, to new experiences and new memories, to people one would otherwise never meet. By exploring the people behind these restaurants, I hope that you might come to know them more personally and be inspired to step outside the culinary box when eating around town. While it’s simple to stay on the trail blazed by ease and familiarity, that path will lead you right past an upstart local gem like La Coronilla - meaning “the crown”.

Friends Apolonio Ramirez and Epifaunio Barrios own La Coronilla. Epifaunio (or Epi) runs La Coronilla on the service road (near Wares Ferry) that runs alongside the Eastern Boulevard, while Apolonio owns and runs El Chido, a Mexican tienda on Burbank Drive just a few miles away from the restaurant. Epi came to Montgomery in 1996 and has spent the past 17 years working hard to realize his dream of owning a restaurant. I walked into to La Coronilla and asked him if he wouldn’t mind telling me his story and that of his restaurant.

Epi’s story began in his home state of Guerrero, Mexico which has a deep influence on his particular brand of Mexican food - which is fresh, traditional and made from scratch in La Coronilla’s open kitchen. He came to the United States for work and ended up in Orosi, California doing backbreaking work as a field hand. He moved to Montgomery in 1996 and began cooking at the newly opened China Buffet which many long-time Montgomery residents will recall. After five years at China Buffet and five years at Lek’s Taste of Thailand, Epi had honed his skills in various culinary traditions but still heard the siren call of freshly made enchiladas con mole and pozole from his native Guerrero.
He has put those skills to work in La Coronilla, a place he decorated by hand with Mexican artwork and live plants. He stresses the freshness and his commitment to delicious traditional food that includes augas frescas (fresh juices), tamales, carnitas, various types of soups, as well as tacos with hand-patted tortillas made fresh daily by his sister. When I asked Epi what were the main challenges of owning his restaurant in Montgomery, he said that people don’t like “cebolla y cilantro”—meaning that people don’t want the fresh onion and cilantro (which, along with lime, complements most any authentic Mexican dish), they want cheesy, saucy, Americanized Mexican food. I told him that I didn’t think that was strictly true, but rather that the local culture of wanting to experience the familiar or making a selection through word of mouth can be limiting to new and “foreign” establishments.

When your friends, family and co-workers are not Korean or Mexican, don’t speak Korean or Spanish, and don’t frequent those restaurants, you are less likely to receive a recommendation and or get a wild hair to seek one out. La Coronilla has been in Montgomery for four years but according to Epi people are not as interested in 100% authentic Mexican food, although he hopes to change that. When I ask if he means that they seem to prefer Mexican food a la Taco Bell he shudders and affirms with a nod. He notes that he welcomes more residents and visitors to experience his version of the Meat and Three: various savory choices of meat or seafood with rice, beans and salad. Some of the Montgomery Crossfit community patronize his establishment and often order dishes off the menu that fit a paleo or primal-style diet, which generally excludes beans and grains. He even remarked that when a large group of them came by one weekend he made them Tom Yum soup by special request. Urbanspoon has highly favorable reviews of La Coronilla from some satisfied souls who have experienced Epi’s homemade food.

Epi has made his home and business in Montgomery and he plans to stay for the long haul. At this point, he says, he just needs a wife. He enjoys the calm way of life in Montgomery but thinks that we need more jobs. According to him, “Si no hay trabajo, no hay dinero y si no hay dinero no hay negocio.” Which means if there are no jobs there is no money, and without money, businesses like La Coronilla cannot survive.

Visit Epi at La Coronilla located at 425 Eastern Boulevard. Open from 9am-9pm, serving Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Wednesday to Monday (closed Tuesdays). On Thursday, Saturday and Sunday they serve pozole. Epi is happy to explain anything on the menu or create an order to meet you or your child’s needs. La Coronnilla is also on Facebook at LaCoronillaGrillCosinaMexicana.