WORDS Amy Collins
Florence is the quintessential small Southern town, with Victorian houses on tree-line streets and a downtown celebrated for its historic preservation. There’s a strong Native American lineage here, and, for the history buffs, informative plaques marking Civil War incidents on obvious, and often not so obvious, street corners, roadsides and parks. In the 1960’s, FAME recording studio (technically across the river in Muscle Shoals) and a group of talented musicians made the area famous to those in the know. Today, Florence is home to an unprecedented two CFDA fashion designers, Natalie Chanin and Billy Reid, and the local music scene is earning significant respect. New restaurants and drinking establishments have recently opened their doors with sophisticated vibes and approachable Southern hospitality. There’s a quiet art scene and a burgeoning class of entrepreneurial makers-doers that make Florence an exciting place to watch right now. Several of the businesses highlighted below have created collaborative and multi-faceted ventures that marry into single thriving entities (Odette’s local-fare menu + craft cocktail bar + market; Alabama Chanin’s retail store + cafe + design to product facility; Billy Reid + Single Lock Records live music venue), and there are several more yet to grab the world’s attention (and they will). With prominent landmarks and a few off the beaten path secrets, this “map of Florence” will set you up for an awesome weekend.
EAT/DRINK
Rivertown Coffee Co.
Independently owned coffee house serves light breakfast, lunch and a few dinner items with a friendly, laid-back vibe. They also have the best craft beer list in town, available for sipping on premise. Order at the counter, check out local artist’s work adorning the walls and settle in at one of the uniquely painted tables.
117 N Seminary St.; 256-765-7128; Hours: Mon-Thurs 7am-10pm, Fri 7am-11pm, Sat 9am-11pm, Closed Sun
Odette
Chef Josh Quick serves internationally inspired cuisine from locally and regionally sourced ingredients with perfect, consistent execution; you can’t order wrong, though the burger is the best (possibly in the history of burgers) and the “small plates” menu offers light fare ideal for stretching out the drinking hours (red curry deviled eggs, steamed pork buns, kale Caesar salad). A full bar backs an extensive list of true classic cocktails and “new tricks” that emphasize a culinary approach. Check out the Market retail space for unique home goods and gifts. Find select Market artisans, purveyors and full menus at www.odettealabama.com
120 N Court Street; 256-349-5219; Hours: Mon-Wed 11am-12pm, Thur-Sat 11am-1am
Trowbridge’s
A Florence mainstay famous for it’s ice cream parlor and lunch counter eats since 1917. Order the pimento cheese and egg & olive on toast. Chicken salad is also a favorite; ask for dill pickle chips on the side. End with a Black walnut ice cream cone.
316 N Court St.; 256-764-1503; Hours: Mon-Sat 9am-7pm, Closed Sun
The Wine Seller
The only spot in town dedicated to fine wine and craft beer. Grab a bottle (or bottles) to go or hang out at one of the tables in their sunny, street-view window and watch passersby as you relax over a glass of wine or beer. In-store tastings every Friday night are the early evening cocktail party where you can get to know the locals and discover a new favorite vino. Some events include food pairings. Learn more on their website www. florencewineseller.net
324 N Court St.; 256-766-1568; Hours: call ahead for in-store events & evening hours
The Factory CafE at Alabama Chanin
Designer Natalie Chanin recently expanded her eco-minded Alabama-made (and internationally known) business to include a retail store, café and on-premise manufacturing facility in her hometown of Florence. Peruse the new collection, DIY kits and other carefully curated gift items in the store, enjoy lunch or dessert and coffee in the café - everything made fresh from locally sourced/organic ingredients in elevated Southern style - under natural light from generous skylights, and stay for the three o’clock guided tour through the factory. www.alabamachanin.com 462 Lane Drive; 256-760- 1090; Café hours: Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Store hours: Mon- Fri 9am-5pm
Taqueria Juarez
Hidden in the back of a Mexican grocery, this mom-and-pop venture serves up fresh, authentic fare from a small grill and griddle behind the counter. Tacos arrive on a warmed corn tortilla filled with chorizo, cachete (beef cheek), chicharron (fried pork skin), lengua (beef tongue) or al pastor (pork simmered in spices with pineapple) among other options. Go for the stacked Tortas with protein of your choice and a pickled jalapeño or try the “special” menudo (tripe soup). Order a horchata to wash it down and bring cash. 1550 Florence, Blvd.; 256-764-7365; HOURS: Tue-Sun 9am-10pm, Closed Mon
Dick Howell’s BBQ Pit
No fuss, old school Alabama BBQ sandwiches and plates with hot slaw (order inside meat for an extra moist and tender experience), $1 hot dogs and whole smoked chickens. This 4th generation establishment has recently been renovated and expanded to add indoor seating.
1350 N Pine Street; 256-712-5092;
HOURS: 10am-7pm Daily
SHOP
Billy Reid
Award-winning designer Billy Reid’s flagship store draws shoppers from across the Southeast and beyond. Decorated with antiques and a decidedly Southern aesthetic that mirrors the designer’s own lifestyle, the storefront shares space with Reid’s studio and team headquarters.
114 N Court St.; 256-767-4692; Hours: Mon-Sat 10am-5:30pm, Closed Sun
Antiques on Court
Court Street is home to several antique shops, but this one is easy to miss. Set behind the owner’s Victorian home, the shop is packed with true antique furniture, china and beautiful odds & ends. It also shares a space with the owner’s two-chair hair salon. 442 N Court St.; 256-766-4429; Hours: Tue-Thur 9am-6pm, Fri-Sat 10am-4:30pm, Closed Sun-Mon
Stevenson Fine Art
Florence native Tim Stevenson has been capturing the Alabama landscape, natural surroundings and daily life in watercolor and oil for over 40 years. His studio and gallery in downtown Florence will inspire any budding artist and impress all art admirers. His watercolor studies of Nature’s ephemera on stark white background are favorites, though the Tennessee Riverscapes make deep, lasting impressions. Original paintings, prints and miscellany are for sale through the gallery and website www.timstevensonart. com. 458 N Court St.; 256-764-9922; Hours: Mon-Sat 9am to 5pm, but call ahead to be sure he’s there or to make an appointment.
Rogers and Rogers Art Gallery The downtown gallery features several local and regional artists, including impressionist painter Tommy Mathis, woodworkers Robin Wade and Ben Burrows, metal worker Lucas Stokes and self-described Interwangelist, Butch Anthony, in addition to artists from across the US and Europe. A bar in the back sells select beer and wine during the gallery’s Happy Hour. 212 N Court St.; 256-278-2524; Hours: Thur-Sat 11am-8pm, Happy Hour Thur-Sat 4pm-7pm
Singing River
Brewery Co.
Florence’s first micro-brewery, opened in late March of this year, pours their IPA, Pale Ale, Porter, and blonde ale Handy’s Gold in their tap room. Check out their Facebook page for new brews and events at Singin’ River Brewing Co.
526 E College St.; Hours: Thur-Fri 4pm-7pm
LISTEN
116
Recently opened music venue 116 Mobile (also the venue’s address) is a partnership between Billy Reid (longtime local music supporter) and local indie label Single Lock Records. Local bands and visitors from across the Southeast and beyond play to an audience of mixed ages with a vibe that feels part listening room, part standing (dancing) room only. Recent shows by Mike Cooley, Dan Dyer, Tift Merritt, Robert Ellis, Shonna Tucker, Steelism and locals Donnie Fritts & John Paul White have set a lofty precedent for future must-see acts. It’s also the place to hear the area’s own best bands, of which there are an inordinate number. Check the website for show schedule. www.116mobile.tumblr.com
Pegasus Records
and Garage
Family owned Pegasus Records has been meeting the Shoals’s music needs for over 30 years. It’s the spot for vinyl, new and used CDs and movies, local band merch and comics. The Pegasus Garage music venue sits behind the store. With an urban, underground club feel, The Garage hosts a range of local and traveling shows. Check the website for show schedule.
www.pegrecords.com
612 E Tennessee St.; 256-767-4340; Store hours: Mon- Sat 9am-6pm, Closed Sun
TOUR
The Rosenbaum House designed by Frank Lloyd Wright
Built in 1939 from glass, brick and native cypress wood, the home demonstrates Wright’s iconic organic design. Natural sunlight bathes each room as one flows into the next. It’s also a stellar example of utilizing limited space. 601 Riverview Drive; 256-740-8899; Hours: Tue-Sat 10am-4pm, Sun 1pm-4pm; Admission charged
Tom’s Wall
Tom Hendrix’s hand-built wall is the largest un-mortared structure in the United States and the only memorial in honor of a Native American woman. Hendrix’s great-great- grandmother was a young girl of the Yuchi tribe when she was marched from her home to Oklahoma on the Trail of Tears. She escaped the reservation and embarked on a five-year journey by foot back to her Singing (Tennessee) River. For over 30 years Hendrix has constructed this tremendous structure one stone at a time for love and honor. It’s a spiritual place that leaves a deep, lasting impression. 13890 Country Road 8, off the Natchez Trace near Hwy 20/Savannah Hwy; 256-764-3617
STAY
The Marriott Hotel & Spa
For the posh weekend, book a room at the Marriott and schedule an afternoon in the spa for massage, manicure and pampering. Situated on the Florence banks of the Tennessee River, the 360 Grille is housed in a slow spinning tower that overlooks the river and historic Wilson Dam. Order a cocktail and watch the sun set on the river. Swampers restaurant off the lobby features outdoor seating and live music.
10 Hightower Place; 256-246-3600
Hampton Inn Downtown
Standard hotel amenities a few blocks from Billy Reid, Odette and 116. It’s a reasonable walk for those so inclined. Fitness room and indoor pool on premise.
505 S Court St.; 256-767-8282
Airbnb
Friends Scott & Susan Ruffrage host a treetop studio for two on Cypress Creek just 10 minutes drive from downtown. A modest, comfortable room includes a separate entrance and bathroom, flat screen TV, lowboy fridge, microwave and free WiFi in a serene, natural setting with abundant wildlife. Shared sun room, raised deck, hot tub and creek access will make you want to stay through Sunday.
See Creekside Studio listing on airbnb.com
Amy Collins is a writer, editor and blogger. www.amyccollins.com