Meet The Owners: MADE on Multi- Cultural Montgomery - From Smuteye to Montgomery

WORDS & PHOTOS  Natilee McGruder

Hobson Cox is a southern character the likes of which great novels are made. I was brought to this charming and charismatic gentleman’s attention by a friend who had shared with me Hobson’s newest endeavor: peanut butter. Hobson has a story for every story and another story after that, but they all have a point: and if you listen well you can learn something. The first lesson is: don’t be afraid to be yourself or reinvent yourself. An army veteran who served in Vietnam, Hobson is also an optician and owner of Affordable Eyewear on Madison Avenue since 1987 (with another location run by his brother in Governor’s Square), Hobson runs a unique special: “We give an extra 10% off any of our sale items when you bring us a bag of CHICKEN FEED.” Hobson ran for mayor against Todd Strange in 2011 on a campaign of that promised “openness, honesty, and transparency.” He is technologically savvy, being one of the first to stream in Montgomery with his Central Alabama Radio Talk/TV Network (CARTN) and he engages in webhosting and cybersquatting: acquiring and maintaining popular or useful domain names that people will be willing to pay for in the future. He also owned the former Capitol Gifts on Madison Avenue where Affordable Eyewear is located, which sold Civil War and Civil Rights memorabilia. He is a consummate business man that does not let emotion get in the way of a profitable idea: “In my world, I can sell more confederate flags on the street than anyone else.”

Hobson’s father was a peanut farmer who moved away from the family land because he could not make enough money in Alabama to take care of his family, including his six children. They followed the path of the Great Migration, a movement during which 6 million black Americans were compelled to flee the Deep South in search for better job opportunities and more social freedom in Northern and Midwest cities like Detroit and Chicago. It was in the fourth grade in Cincinnati, Ohio that Hobson learned about Dr. George Washington Carver. A resourceful man who was known to search trash heaps with his students for items to use in his lab at Tuskegee University, Dr. Carver went on to use his keen knowledge of chemistry and physics and his resourceful spirit to research the humble peanut. He eventually came up with more than 300 new uses for the peanut including chili sauce, caramel, peanut sausage, mayonnaise and coffee, shampoo, hand lotion, insecticides, glue, charcoal rubber and axle grease.

Hobson is following in the footsteps of his father and Dr. Carver as he works towards production of his very own “Tuskegee” and “Skegee” Peanut Butters: minimally processed and sweetened with local honey from Joe Barnett and Angel and Tim Faulkner out of Fitzpatrick, AL. He found additional inspiration from Dr. Carver’s legacy while working in Tuskegee for three years under ophthalmologist Dr. S.H. Settler, who is a strong part of the local community. Not too long ago, Hobson heard from one of his customers about someone making peanut butter out at East Chase and it immediately occurred to him to try his hand at it. He searched online and found out that there was no “Tuskegee Peanut Butter” and so he snapped up the name, bought five pounds of Valencia fresh peanuts, shelled them while watching Cam Newton beat New Orleans, roasted them, and then promptly burnt out his first food processor. After several batches and meticulously tracking his successes and failures, his final product is left smooth, but a bit gritty; just how Hobson imagines Dr. Carver’s original butter might have been with the technology of the time, a historical fact he is currently researching. Lightly sweetened with honey and made savory with a pinch of kosher salt, Hobson’s original Tuskegee Peanut Butter and his “special secret” blend of Skegee Peanut Butter are instant Alabama classics. The generous samples he gave me didn’t make it to Ann Street.

The second lesson I learned from Hobson is to support local. The movement of eating and producing local is not a new one to Hobson or his kin. The Cox family has been living on family land in Smuteye, an unincorporated town in Bullock County, about an hour outside of Montgomery since 1837. Hobson lives in a renovated home built in 1870, which sits across the street from the house where he was born, in which his brother Major Cox currently resides. The Cox family is known for hosting a Hog Killing Time Barbeque every year in the fall that brings together annually a crowd of friends and family to the Cox Plantation. Through this local heritage comes another business inspiration: Hobson hopes to bring the first grocery store to downtown Montgomery, Smuteye Grocery, to be located in his building at 10 Perry Street near the Irish Bread Pub. Smuteye Grocery’s facade would be that of a rural general store in homage to the original Smuteye country store (pictured) and it would specialize in locally produced food like breads, cakes, smoked meats. and peanut butters as well as outside products.

Hobson loves Montgomery because of the challenge and opportunity we face to elevate the city into its rightful spot in United States and world culture. He says that we must stop throwing rocks at each other and move forward capitalizing on our significant location as the birthplace of the Civil War and the Civil Rights Movement. He believes that we should take pride in what we have to offer and charge those who can pay for the use of our bridges, our capitol steps, and our churches, which become hotbeds of activity around election and anniversary times. At the end of the day, the last lesson I learned from Hobson Cox and Dr. George Washington Carver is that Montgomery needs more entrepreneurs in addition to free and creative thought with a little bit of peanut butter on the side.

Look out for Tuskegee Peanut Butter from Smuteye Foods coming to a store near you as well as Smuteye Grocery. Hobson Cox can be reached at Affordable Eyewear, 324 Madison Avenue, (334) 834-2020.

Meet The Owners: MADE on Multi-Cultural Montgomery - India Palace

WORDS and PHOTOS  Natilee McGruder

February is Black History Month and I went into my most recent interview thinking about what that meant to me. As a young black female raised in Montgomery by a father who grew up in West Montgomery during the Civil Rights Movement, I have always had a strong sense of pride in what people of all colors were able to accomplish with blood, sweat, tears and prayers in our fair city. For me, the significance of any history month is the opportunity to look at our collective history, the history of humanity, colored by a particular lens, which lends us new perspective and nuance.

I have always been a reader and history lover, because early on I understood that history is simply the story of a group of people, during a certain time, that we can learn from today. Unfortunately, the weighty gift of creating the historical narrative falls to the “victor” which generally has meant: the “winner” of the war, the person who survived to tell about it or the person(s) with the access to the resources and the political power to do so. Many stories are left out and many more left virtually unexplored, as they are deemed “less” important because of the main characters, the end result, or the message it would send to the comfortable masses. Lerone Bennetts, Jr.’s, Before the Mayflower: A History of Black America should be a required text for all American students, while Howard Zinn’s,  A People’s History of the United States is an excellent example of history told with the dominant narrative turned on its head (available for you to read, free online!).

The connection between the story of India and that of Montgomery may seem to be a stretch on the surface, but, as with any history, they are connected. One such connection is Martin Luther King’s deep inspiration from Mohandas K. Ghandi and his nonviolent teachings.  King traveled to India in April 1959 after devouring Ghandi’s writings. Before he left the country he said,“[s]ince being in India, I am more convinced than ever before that the method of nonviolent resistance is the most potent weapon available to oppressed people in their struggle for justice and human dignity.”  He then brought back strategies for nonviolent resistance to the marginalized poor in the Deep South and all over the US via the Civil Rights Movement.

A more recent Montgomery-India connection is that of the recently returned restaurant, India Palace. Surat Singh, Amandeep Singh and Dr. Sandeep Virk all hail from the northwest region of India called Punjab, which is home to the world’s largest population of Sikhs. Together the men bring an incredible value to Montgomery through their commitment to quality Indian “slow food” and their adherence to the Sikh faith. Sikhs believe in equality of humankind, universal brotherhood, and one God. In the words of the founder of the Sikh religion, Guru Nanak, the “Realization of Truth is higher than all else. Higher still is truthful living.”

Truthful living is what allowed the re-opening of India Palace in Vaughn Road Plaza to be met with crowds the very first week, who, when given apologies from Sandeep regarding their wait replied, “Don’t worry. We know your food is worth the wait!” India Palace is run in partnership by Amandeep and Sandeep (who during the day is an internal medicine doctor at Jackson Hospital). The real heart of the operation, however, is in the kitchen: Amandeep’s father, Surat Singh. Surat came to the United States from India in 2001 and proceeded to cook and train as a chef in Atlanta and Tuscaloosa until he was able to open India Palace in its original location off McGhee Rd. His son, Amandeep came from India to run the restaurant with his father in 2007 and then moved again with his father when they decided to try for the greener pastures of Pensacola, Florida. After closing their Montgomery doors in 2012, they opened a successful restaurant there of the same name that still exists, but soon found themselves gravitating back to Montgomery.
In the very brief moment I was able to steal Surat away from his beloved kitchen, he explained via Sandeep that he loves the Montgomery people and that everyone is so happy they have returned.  Amandeep echoes this sentiment: “people here love the food and we could have chosen to go anywhere after Pensacola, but we chose to come back to Montgomery because of the people.”  The father and son team returned from Pensacola, partnered with Sandeep, and moved to a bigger and better location to start their new chapter in a city that has shown them so much love. Sandeep also noted that overhead costs and the cost of living in Florida made returning to Montgomery an easy decision to make.

The biggest challenge for India Palace is that many people in Montgomery have never tried Indian food and have a limited perspective on the cuisine. In his practice at Jackson, Sandeep always encourages the Indian food uninitiated to come try the lunch buffet and after some hesitation they usually do. When I asked Sandeep about his thoughts on Black History Month and whether it had any personal value to him, he said “it does matter. Everyone has their stereotypes and we need to be more involved with each other.” One thing he would change about Montgomery is the lack of opportunities to meet different kinds of people. He says that here, “people don’t mix much” and that should be changed through education at an early age and opportunities throughout the city to meet and interact with one another. These are sentiments that were true in King’s day and remain an issue for us to tackle together as one United Montgomery.

Visit Amandeep, Surat and Sandeep at India Palace located at 2801 Vaughn Plaza Road, Suite E in the Vaughn Road Plaza near the Vaughn Rd and Eastern Boulevard intersection. Phone: 334-245-9340. Closed Mondays, open every other day of the week from 11:00am to 2:30pm and 5:00pm-9:30pm, 10:00 pm on Friday and Saturday. Weekend buffet includes goat meat and gulab jamun.

Love's Labour's Lost: No Effort Valentine's Day Ideas

WORDS  Anna Lowder

Love it or leave it, there’s almost no getting away from Valentine’s Day. Yes, it is a clichéd convention used to promote lackluster chocolate and the international cut flower industry. But unless you want the cold shoulder from your significant one, you’d better make some plans for Friday the Fourteenth.

All is not lost, however, as we present a shortlist of good options for your Valentine’s plans. These spots range from local character (dives) to fine dining (expect to spend many hours here), with some irreverence for good measure.

Fine & Wine
These local gems turn out top-notch cuisine day-in-day-out. Pair that with beautiful settings and polished service, and you’ve got the recipe for a worry-free night. Book well in advance and take advantage of smart wine lists and craft cocktails.

True
Chef Wesley True and his team turn out fine dining fare as consistent as it is unexpected. Think snails that sell alongside fiery fried chicken skins and you’ve got a glimpse into Wesley’s creative efforts. A sneak peek at TRUE’s Valentine’s Menu features hand-made silky gnocchi, gulf fish, and chocolate, chocolate, chocolate.
503 Cloverdale Road, 334.356.3814,
www.truemontgomery.com

Central
It’s easy to woo your loved one amid the kind, warm light of gas lanterns and plush banquettes. Central’s interior is to impressive as Chef Leo is to upbeat and energetic. Dig into Leo’s flavorful take on hearty meats and seafood featuring fresh produce straight from EAT South’s Downtown Farm just down the street. 129 Coosa Street, 334.517.1155,
www.central129coosa.com

City Grill
Fans of this beautiful spot have a hard time deciding whether they spend so much time here for the food or the spot-on service. Either way, City Grill is packed. John and Terri welcome guests with the always popular Tuna Napolean, or splurge with Surf & Turf with Lobster.
5251 Hampstead High Street, 334.244.0960

Red Hearts &
White Paper Napkins
Ditch the tablecloths and get stuck in with some serious grub. What else says love like getting dirty with the one you love?

The Marina
Take advantage of sunset river views and the glorious oyster season - what could be better than an aphrodisiac dinner on Valentine’s? Order crisp, cold Gulf oysters for two and slurp down by the dozen. Cold beer, a couple stabs of Crystal hot sauce, and you’ve got a love potion on that Saltine.
617 Shady Street, 334.239.8958

Chris’ Hot Dogs
Grab a seat at the counter and make a memory in one of Montgomery’s oldest food spots. With its cool melamine aqua plates and glass bottle Coca-Colas, order a couple of dogs each, making sure to drench in Chris’ special sauce. Crinkle fries are a must. Learn about problem solving and compromise if your significant other insists on ordering a cheeseburger instead of the usual dog.
138 Dexter Avenue, 334.265.6850

Waffle House
What else would love taste like if not a waffle bathed in syrup? After a night on the town, drop by your local WH and order a tabletop full of waffles, fluffy omelets, and crispy S-C-S-D hash browns. Apparently you can even order non-breakfast food here. Who knew?
Numerous Locations, www.wafflehouse.com

Who Needs Food
Sous La Terre
It’s Valentine’s after all - ditch the heavy meal and dive underground to this Downtown institution. All plush red and dimly lit, Sous La Terre feels otherworldly in the best sense. Music to light you up and drinks to match. You’re welcome.
82 Commerce Street, 334.265.2069

Leroy
Looking for early or late cocktails? Leroy is the lounge you’ve been searching for. Intense cocktail and beer lists set the stage, and the liquor varieties are second to none. No matter what your tastes, Leroy delivers something for everyone. Great lighting and music are the icing on your cake.
2752 Boultier Street, 334.356.7132,
www.leroylounge.com

Sandwiches & History: Scott Street Deli

WORDS and PHOTOS Katie Vega

Scott Street Deli has been high on the list of Montgomery experiences for decades.  A favorite of lawyers, middle schoolers, and lifelong Montgomerians alike, everyone is attracted to the nostalgic feel and delicious sandwiches that come out of this place.  We all love the nouveau-riche, swanky spots that are popping up around our city, but this humble hole is the perfect spot to grab lunch during our daily hustle in this mini concrete jungle.  A former grocery store, the spot that holds the deli has been open for operation since the early 1900s.  Oh, and you want to know a fun little fact?  If you take a peek at the back wall, you’ll see hooks that once held the horses belonging to the old firehouse next door.  That.  Is.  Cool.

Okay, now that we’ve got the brief history lesson out of the way, let’s get down to the nitty gritty—the thing people near and far come to see—the star of the show—the sandwich.

Scott Street’s sky high sandwiches are not for the faint of heart.  Whether you order the Club, the Italian, or the Frencheletta, don’t go in expecting a run-of-the-mill, over-processed, only-enough-meat-for-a-toddler sandwich.  And let me give you a little advice: make sure you go on a completely empty stomach, because trust me, you are going to want to eat it all, and all is a whole lot.  The glue that holds the happy family of meats together is Scott Street’s homemade bread.  You do have a choice to pick between regular loaf bread and homemade bread, but I think we all know what the obvious choice is.  And don’t anticipate some fancy-shmancy bread.  This is some big, hearty, American-made goodness.  Could anything else handle the (what seems like) pounds of piled-high meat?  I think not.   

While the food is obviously the most important factor, the atmosphere is also a force to be reckoned with.  It’s everything you would hope an old store would be.  Small, simple, and somehow amazingly beautiful—all at the same time.  If the hardwood floors could talk, they would take you back to the time when eating local was the only way to eat. There was no Publix, Fresh Market, or Walmart.  Just your neighborhood grocery store.  Wouldn’t you love to shop in a small place, with people you know all around you, and everything you were buying was grown a mile up the road?

That’s the memory I imagine when I walk into the deli. It takes me back to the good ole days—the ones that I and others in Gen X never got to experience.  So if you’re looking for that experience, step inside the red door to heaven.  You’ll be greeted with every ounce of friendliness.  Oh, and grab a sandwich while you’re in there.  Don’t think about asking “for here”—these two words don’t exist.  But if you’re interested in sticking close to the source, feel free to grab a spot outside on the brick wall under the magnolia tree.  You’re welcome.

Eating in Montgomery: A Year in Review

 WORDS and PHOTO Brent Rosen

Year in review lists are subjective as hell, the worst sort of navel gazing, and invariably start arguments, both about the reviewer and the reviews. That’s what makes them so great. With the December chill in the air, it felt like the right time to talk about some of the best things I ate this year. Without further introduction, the list of my best bites in Montgomery 2013:

Bruschetta at Midtown Pizza Kitchen, 2940 Zelda Rd   (334) 395-0080

Butter up and toast some delicious bread. Cover it in halved cherry tomatoes, small diced onions, shaved parmesan cheese, a chiffonade of basil and some good, sweet, reduced balsamic vinegar. What you have is the best “salad” course I ate in Montgomery this year. The flavors are a perfect balance of acidity and fat, sweet with a hint of sour, crispy bread, juicy tomatoes, just the right amount of onion to wake everything up. An appetizer for a large group, a hearty lunch for an individual, this dish is one of the few I crave once it’s been absent from my life for too long.

Mixed Fried Chicken at Davis Café, 518 N Decatur St   (334) 264-6015

Fried chicken makes me feel guilty. All of that fat, all of those calories, the afternoon ruining gut-punch of an overdose of fried chicken at lunch. But the fried chicken at Davis Café makes the guilt worth it. Crispy, perfectly seasoned skin - not too hot, not too salty - gives way to the juiciest fried chicken I’ve ever eaten with almost no resistance. Normally I opt for all dark meat, but even the breasts at Davis Cafe are moist, flavorful, and worth a try. Montgomery has a heap of meat and three places, but Davis Café’s fried chicken elevates it to the top. I try to eat lunch there every couple of weeks just to make sure the chicken isn’t some sort of mirage.

Crab Cakes at Central, 129 Coosa Street   (334) 517-1155

There are two kinds of crab cakes, good and bad. The bad kind are the bready, sort of mealy, too heavily fried, and lacking in much actual crab variety. The good kind are crab-studded, limitedly breaded, red-pepper accented and sautéed. Central definitely serves the good kind of crab cakes. They are plump crab cakes, perfectly sautéed with just enough breading to hold everything together. The last time I ate them, the cakes were served on a bed of sweet corn with peppers, onions, and a light sauce - enough to flavor the dish without overwhelming the subtleness of the crab. Central changes up the menu frequently, so when you see crab cakes, order them.

Spicy Fried Rice with Shrimp at Green Papaya, 409 Coliseum Blvd   (334) 395-7654

Green Papaya shares a strip shopping mall with Eastbrook Flea Market, and like Eastbrook, Green Papaya offers unexpected surprises one would not expect from its exterior. I’ve never eaten anything I didn’t like at Green Papaya, but the spicy basil rice with shrimp stands out among all of the great dishes they serve. It took a couple of visits before I trusted the place enough to order the shrimp, and I cannot emphasize enough how good a decision that was. The shrimp at Green Papaya are fresh, huge and excellently prepared. They mix in with the rice like croutons on a salad - sweet, salty, beautiful croutons. I order the dish medium spicy with a side of sriracha, but I usually don’t end up needing much extra spice. The dish is pretty much perfect straight from the kitchen.  

Chicken Skins at True, 503 Cloverdale Rd   (334) 356-3814

Chef Wesley is going to be pissed about this one. I know he prides himself on his creativity, use of local ingredients, and his deconstruction and reconstruction of classic dishes. I know he would rather see his escargot, his chilled vegetables, his tomato salad here. Sorry pal, but the chicken skins are one of the best things I’ve eaten this year, anywhere. The intensity of the chicken flavor, the smoky heat of the hot sauce, the snap-crunchiness, the ranch to cool everything down before the next bite. You have something magical in those chicken skins. Celebrate it.

Arepas at D’Road Café, 6250 Atlanta Hwy   (334) 356-1563

D’road café serves the Latin American food I love. Beans, rice, plantains, shredded meats, light cheeses, and peppers abound. The arepa is a cake of ground maize flower, stuffed with meats, rices, vegetables and cheeses. The version at D’road café that I love comes with shredded pork and rice with a mix of salsa and sour cream. The corn cake soaks up all of the pork and rice juices, the salsa and sour cream add even more flavor, and there is no beating the texture: it’s like a burrito, but somehow softer yet more substantial. The arepa at D’road café makes you wonder how our ancestors got on with ham sandwiches and mayonnaise.

Meet The Owners: MADE on Multi-Cultural Montgomery - Ricos Tacos

WORDS and PHOTOS Natilee McGruder 

Having lived in Ghana, Mexico and Australia and traveled in places like Cambodia, Switzerland and Germany, I have a consistent hankering for what are considered “exotic” foods in the South. While I enjoy eating out and discovering new places with authentic cuisine, I also fancy myself a bit of an internationally inspired home cook. My main problem with recreating favorite dishes sampled throughout my travels is the hard-to-find ingredients and spices, which often remain elusive even after I’ve tapped Earth Fare and World Market – for example, I find myself spending gas, money and time journeying to Atlanta for my cherished Ethiopian ingredients. 

So, it was with a profound sense of homecoming that I found what I consider to be the multi-cultural food oasis in Montgomery: tucked away in the Capitol Plaza Shopping Center off the Southern Boulevard between Woodley Road and Narrow Lane Road sits an old Winn-Dixie that has been reincarnated as the Capitol (Super) Market. Signs in Korean and Spanish welcome you to what is most definitely not the typical grocery experience in our city. Among the incredibly diverse produce section (young whole coconuts, chayote squash and thai eggplant anyone?), atypical meats and seafood and the various aisles of Latin American, African, Mexican, Caribbean and Asian food and spices, resides Ricos (meaning rich or delicious) Tacos: a 100% legit taco counter for those who crave or are curious about authentic antojitos (Mexican street food). 

Initially it might seem odd that there’s a taco place in a grocery store, but if you can appreciate the long-standing culture of street vendors and food stalls in the traditional markets all around Central and Latin America (and in increasing parts the US), then you know that this makes perfect sense. While the owner of the store is Korean, Ricos Tacos is run by Gladys Chavez, a Honduran immigrant whose husband Antonio is the store’s Latino produce manager. Gladys and Antonio, who have known each other for roughly 14 years, met at the beloved Buford Farmers Market, a large international market widely revered in the Atlanta area for its global offerings that include Eastern European baked goods and mind-boggling produce, seafood and meat sections. Antonio, who hails from Mexico City, worked at the market for 15 years while Gladys, of Choluteca, Honduras, was in Atlanta for three years before the couple moved with their two children to Montgomery in May 2011. 

After working for a short while in the store, Gladys was asked by the Capitol Market owner what she could cook. She replied “tacos,” and shortly after Ricos Tacos was born. Known as “the most democratic food in Mexico,” due to their mass appeal, Montgomery residents and visitors can experience several types of tacos including de pastor, carne asada, chicken, barbacoa, and lengua as well as street favorites like tamales, quesadillas, burritos, elote (corn on the cob), Mexican sodas (Jarritos brand) and horchata. There is a pandería (bakery) just to the right of the counter selling a nice selection of Mexican breads and on the weekends Gladys serves Caldo de Res, a traditional beef and vegetable soup that for me evokes my time spent in kitchens and markets in Guanajuato and Oaxaca. One of the best features of Ricos is the salsa bar that includes pickled radishes and carrots, fresh pico de gallo, onions, salsa verde, salsa rojo, chopped cilantro and lime wedges waiting for you to pile them on top of whatever inexpensive dish you choose. 

As a hardworking mother and wife, one thing Gladys would like to improve in Montgomery is programs to address poverty, increasing the number of businesses of all types and expanding our public transportation offerings. As a non-driver, she sorely misses the trains, taxis and more comprehensive bus system of Atlanta. She likes the people of Montgomery and considers them to be nice and easy going; she also thinks that the police and authority figures are more conscientious in Montgomery than in Atlanta, particularly in how they interact with Latino immigrants. 

When I asked Gladys what challenges she faces with Ricos Tacos, she very seriously tells me, “none.” There are a few tables in front of the counter where customers can sit and enjoy their meal and while business can be slow at times, it will generally pick up and stay at a steady pace. She welcomes many customers throughout the week whose backgrounds include American, Korean, Chinese, Mexican and Indian. Her main desire for her life is to achieve the “American Dream” which she says is what all immigrants want—to work hard and have a better life. In Honduras there is little money, so those born poor work, and work and work, and still only make just enough for their families to eat and survive. The Antonio and Gladys are recent homeowners and happy with the life they are creating here as their children go through middle school. Their plan is to work hard and live a quality life in Montgomery for many years to come. 

Visit Gladys at Ricos Tacos located inside the Capitol Market at 2256 E. South Boulevard just up from Baptist South behind the Burger King. Phone: 334-294-8591. Ricos Tacos is closed on Wednesdays but open every other day of the week from 8am to 8pm. Caldo de res, menudo, tamales and caldo de camarón sold Friday-Sunday only.

Off The Beaten Path: Cuba - Communism, Carpaccio, Rap and Rum

WORDS David Mowery

2013 marks the 50th anniversary of the Kennedy Assassination, an event in our recent past that will always be intertwined with the fate of our island neighbor. Most people understand that travel between the US and Cuba is not exactly a free flowing shipping lane from Key West to Havana. What you may not know is that we still maintain an embargo - or as the Cubanos call it - El Blockado - meaning no trade or travel between the nations. (Though Alabama has a special trade agreement to provide certain ag products including chicken and wood, that is of a more humanitarian nature than it is commercial.)

Let’s get this out of the way up front: Communism sucks, and the best way to end Communist rule in Cuba, and bring freedom and opportunity to our nearest Caribbean neighbor, is to End The Embargo.

But since the focus of “Off The Beaten Path” is food, I decided to focus this month’s entry on the culinary aspects of my recent trip to America’s Cold War bête noir.

The obvious question then is - “How did you get to go?” The second question everyone asks me is “How was the food?” I got to go because a friend of mine invited me, and he was able to get our group past customs via a license from the US government.

Unfortunately, the food was not what you might expect for such an exotic locale. The best meal we ate the entire time was at The Columbia Restaurant in Tampa the night before we left.

The one thing that seemed omni-present at every place or meal was a Cuban style antipasti with a passable prosciutto, something like bologna, and a cold cut that resembled mortadella - bologna with the white blotches. None of this was bad, per se, but it wasn’t like getting the antipasti plate at an Italian restaurant either. The cheeses were ok, but all were presented in a shape akin to a combination triangle/crinkle cut fry, and most appeared to be leaking oils due to the heat. Some of these plates featured small, mealy shrimp and olives.

The best meals we ate were at the Hotel Nacional, where upon arrival we got several sandwich plates, including, yes, a cuban sandwich. For some reason the meats were more appetizing in sandwich form.

Though not on an official delegation trip, on our second night, we did meet with several officers of the Cuban government, including The Minister of The Interior. We had what passes for a dinner party at The Hotel Nacional. The choices were fish or steak, and being that we were on an island, I opted for the fish. It wasn’t bad or inedible, but if you were served this as a hotel’s example of an entree they would serve at your wedding, you would quickly decide on another venue.

It was interesting to interact with government types in a casual environment. To a man they were exceedingly polite, and happy and interested to speak to Americanos. I did refrain from telling them that El Jefe Castro is a Puto Communisto, just for decorum’s sake, though.

The next day we were treated to a 200km bus ride to Xanadu - The DuPont Mansion. When you hear that Cuba is 90 miles from Key West, that’s the measurement from the end of the old pier at Xanadu to the shore at Key West. Nothing like cramming 10 hungover gringos into a Chinese-made bus for 3 hours to see a renovated old house and have lunch.

On the way we stopped at a Cuban rest stop, which is not to be confused with something you’d encounter on The New Jersey Turnpike - nary a Sbarro or Starbucks in sight. They did have what seemed to be an ever present bar. For the equivalent of $3 you could get a fresh pina colada to which you add your own rum. Needless to say “some” in our group would gulp down half the frothy coconut concoction while it was virgin, and then fill the glass back to the top with Havana Club.

Side Note Here: The Rum is Awesome. Havana Club, which Bacardi sells a Z Grade knock-off of here in the states, is truly a drink of champions. It comes in several varietals, of which we found the 7 year to be the mid-point between taste and price, and the 1 or 3 year great for dumping into a glass with any mixer available. It was readily available everywhere we went.

The meal at Xanadu, named for a Samuel Taylor Coleridge poem about Kubla Khan, may have been the worst of the entire trip. Our fish, billed as Red Snapper, tasted like a cross between old dried out tilapia and shoe leather. What they lacked in culinary skill, they made up for in stout and sugary mojitos which readily fortified us for the ride back to Havana.

While traversing the countryside, we saw a few emaciated cows grazing on farms situated by the road side. It was explained to us that before La Revolucion, one of Cuba’s main agricultural products was beef. They once had grand ranches that were appropriated in post-revolution land reforms. The result is a once proud industry brought low, and it is now illegal to kill a cow in Cuba. The Government controls the supply and much of it is set aside for tourists - which explains carpaccio being on every palladar menu.

That evening we enjoyed the first of two meals at a Palladar, which are “the Cubans’ attempt at private restaurants.” These are usually in private homes and reminded me of the Gasthouses we used to eat at when I lived in Germany as a kid. You’re basically in a restaurant set up in someone’s home, usually on the bottom floor, and the residence is on the upper floors.

This one was called La Havaina. We ate in a side room near the kitchen, which looked like a professional kitchen you would see here in the states in a smaller restaurant. The food choices included a special of tres de mare - pescado, camarones, and langosta - fish, shrimp and lobster. The appetizer special was carpaccio de pulpo, which Javier the proprietor told me he caught and prepped himself that morning. This may have been the best thing I ate on island.

There was also an option of rabbit in gravy over rice. While most of our party opted for the tres de mare, I got the rabbit. I enjoy rabbit, and this was good, though it could have been deboned a bit better. Nothing like reaching in your mouth at the table to pull out shards of bone from between your molars. It was also bland to my pallet. Like Chicken Ala King or something your grandparents served at dinner parties when everyone was too drunk to care about the “flavor components” of their meal.

I did however bring home a menu signed by the owner, chef and staff. As I told him: “Some of my friends have a Mario Batali from Babbo, or a John Besh from August. I have a Frank Stitt from Highlands and from Bottega - but so do a lot of people I know. Don’t nobody got a Javier from La Havaina, and they’re not likely to anytime soon” (Mas Hipster Cred, Amigo!)

That night we stayed out until the sun came up at a Cuban disco-cum-nightclub. Imagine Bud’s if Bud put in Christmas lights, white banquets, and a DJ. It was an interesting time spent interacting with the locals and other foreign visitors. And in case you are wondering, youth culture world wide is rap culture. They played, and the crowd all knew, Macklemore, TI, L’il Wayne and others. They were impressed when I told them about meeting Weezy in ATL and Wacka Flocka “A la playa.” The biggest hit of the night, though, was Icona Pop and Charlie XCX’s “I Don’t Care (I Love It)” which pretty much brought the house down. During the evening, I bought a round of shots, and I asked one of our new friends “Can I yell ‘Viva La Revolucion!’ as our toast?” She said “No - I understand you like the iconography, but La Revolucion means nothing to us.”

The next morning came early, but with a great adventure - we went to Finca Vigia -  Ernest Hemingway’s house. And thankfully they were grinding out sugar cane juice for strong rum drinks. My constitution was weak at this point, and the rum was much needed - and the sugar more so. After belting a few of those back, I loaded up on cheap souvenirs and we went back to La Floridita - The Home Of The Daquiri - and featuring a bronze statue of Papa himself leaning against the bar.

On our last night, we went to another Palladar, billed as the top one in Havana. The neighborhood, architecture and clientele all indicated a higher class neighborhood - pretty interesting for a classless worker’s paradise. The food was on par with what we had at La Havaina, though the service was a little slower and the portions a little smaller. Carpaccio must be the new thing down there, as it was a choice for appetizer at this place as well. Here I decided to go with the special of langosta. They were caught that day. And while the lobster was fresh, it was not as meaty or succulent as the type of tail you would get in the US. It was saved by squirting lime over it, as the butter wasn’t drawn, and it tasted more like lard anyway.

We spent the remainder of that evening with our friends from the night before at a club featuring some traditional Cuban singers - and where they proceeded to drink sweet vermouth on ice. If you’ve never tasted it, it’s like a cross between red wine and vinegar, and there’s a reason it’s best known as an ingredient in a drink and not a drink in and of itself.

We asked them about the reason the food was generally bland, or not that great, and it makes sense - they can’t get too much in the way of ingredients. The main spices they have to work with are salt, pepper, garlic and lime. And thinking back over the meals we had, that is exactly what most of them were flavored with. It explains why the carpaccio were so prevalent, and why some of the things that sounded good came out with the taste and texture of wet cardboard.

So while I can (and in a later expanded story, will) tell you more about how the embargo affects the lives of the Cuban people, let’s focus on what’s important here: if we lifted the embargo not only would we free 12 million people from under a Communist dictator’s boot heel, tourists would be able to get better food.

Meet The Owners: Island Delight

WORDS Natilee McGruder  PHOTO Weston Markwell

As an Air Force transplant who moved with my family from Wright-Patterson Air Force Base in Dayton, Ohio to Maxwell AFB here in Montgomery, I have a long-standing connection with the military way of life and an affinity for travel and different cultures. I was nine when this life changing move to Alabama occurred and, in part because of my age, easily melded into to the “Southern Way of Life.”  While my move consisted of a paltry 600 odd miles and a change in (albeit very different) US cultures, Melissa Smith of Manchester, Jamaica moved 1,230 miles to Montgomery and a world of difference in culture and temperature with her active duty husband and her two young sons.

When she arrived it was winter—January 2000 in Montgomery seemed cold and unforgiving as well as incredibly foreign. Melissa is soft spoken with a lyrical nature to her speech, common of people who are native to the Caribbean seas. She notes that the first few months, “we went to Atlanta every weekend to help me adjust, to eat Jamaican food and buy spices. I was depressed and in culture shock.” Things might have been harder had her family not lived on base because as Melissa explains, “the military is big on family and that was a blessing.”  

Things took a turn for the better when Melissa and her husband Richard, high school sweethearts, attended an office party where he had volunteered her services to make jerk chicken. The dish was a roaring success and they were encouraged to open a restaurant to provide a taste of Jamaica to Montgomery, something that Melissa had already been contemplating. After almost 11 years of business, Island Delight has become a part of the fabric of Montgomery, as have Melissa and her family. Located on Air Base Boulevard just a stone’s throw away from the Day Street entrance of the base, Island Delight has resulted in many happy military personnel who leave on assignment and tell people on bases in Japan and Germany the gem that can be found in Montgomery, Alabama.  

Melissa explained that throwing herself into the daunting task of restaurant ownership as the chef, busboy, cashier and wait staff all rolled into one while caring for her sons allowed her to shake her depression and introduced to her Caribbean people in the area, Jamaican food enthusiasts, and island culture neophytes who all became a part of her new family. Through the restaurant she has made life-long friends who made her transition a lot easier.

Melissa’s biggest challenge used to be that people were not familiar with Caribbean cuisine and were hesitant to try it, but after 11 years she has gathered a reputation for fall-off-the bone tender ox tails, delicious jerk chicken, whole red snapper, king fish and tilapia to order as well as the ubiquitous Jamaican beef patties and rice and beans. One question customers often ask “is it real goat meat?” makes her laugh. Her rotating menu features curry goat and chicken and she always has a great selection of natural sodas like ginger beer as well as fruit juices. At this point what she really needs is reliable help, which according to Melissa and other small business owners she has consulted with, is a problem around town. She is looking for someone ideally who knows how to prepare the cuisine, but who at least is willing to learn and be trained. With her eye on expansion to another location where she can do lunch and dinner, reliable help is a must.

Melissa has made Montgomery her home and doesn’t plan on leaving it any time soon, but one thing she would like see is more activities for young people and families. She feels that when you don’t have things for kids to do, they get in trouble, which is one reason why she has started a youth program at her church, Montgomery First Seventh-Day Adventist which features music, drama and discussion classes for young people. She was inspired by the dynamic churches she was a part of in Jamaica that would host bonfires, sing-alongs and socials in the evenings for the whole family to attend.

Looking back on how far she has come, from not having a drivers license and feeling miserable in a foreign land to providing a place of love and cultural sharing for her new Montgomery family - as well as her parents who now live here - Melissa says, “I am happy I actually did [open Island Delight] because I have met some amazing people who I can now call friends. They have watched my children grow up, I have been there for the birth of theirs and now we are almost like family. I especially enjoy the looks on my military family faces after they have left for other bases for a few years and return to find me. It makes me feel really good when they say they were praying I was still here.”

Stop by and see Melissa at Island Delight at 323 Air Base Blvd, Montgomery, AL 36108. Phone: 334 264-0041.  Hours of operation are Monday-Friday 11am – 4pm.

Market Watch: The Lavender Pig

WORDS Katie Lindgren  PHOTOS Luke Lindgren

A few months ago I was given a bar of hand soap as a gift.  As I held it in my hands I realized it was made locally in Hope Hull, Alabama by The Lavender Pig.  Its scent said Bergamot Grapefruit, and after one whiff I was hooked; it smelled incredible.  I never realized that something so small like a bar of soap could cause me to stop and evaluate the products I use in my everyday life.  But using something that was made by hand with care, and then shaking hands with the person who made it, takes the experience to a whole other level.  Every time I use this soap, it leaves my hands soft, clean, and the delightful scent lingers. I know who made it, how they made it, what ingredients are in it, and most importantly, that it won’t harm my skin.  

I met with The Lavender Pig owner and creator Leigh Black at The Montgomery Curb Market to talk about what she makes, and how The Lavender Pig came to exist.  She explained that she started making soap because she had a skin sensitivity that prevented her from using over the counter products.  Unfortunately, Leigh was forced to use soaps that had no scent.  After she tried a homemade soap that smelled great and didn’t irritate her skin, she knew she had to make her own.  

Making soap was only the beginning; because in addition to her bar soap Leigh now makes lotion, lip balm, body scrubs, shampoo, conditioner, and so much more.  She even makes natural flea repellent for dogs.  The Lavender Pig offers upwards of 70 different fragrances and flavors, and she is still expanding, experimenting, and growing.

To learn more you can visit her website www.thelavenderpig.com, or you can e-mail her at leigh@thelavenderpig.com.  She has a booth at the Montgomery Curb Market, which is open Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday from 7am-1pm.   

Meet The Owners: D'Road Cafe

MADE On Multi-Cultural Montgomery

WORDS  Natilee McGruder   PHOTO Jon Kohn

One early Wednesday morning, I meet Janet at D’Road Café, in the same shopping center as Virginia College and Mr. G’s, off the Atlanta Highway between Frazier Church and Bell Road. She greets me in Spanish as she quickly finishes mopping and then proceeds to wipe down the counters and tables. “Quieres tomar un café?” she asks me through the flurry of activity. I decline coffee and at her recommendation opt for “jugo de kiwi”, a simple smoothie with the sole ingredients being blended kiwis, ice and a dash of sugar, which tasted like the most delicious, creamy fruit smoothie. After heating up some homemade rolls for us, Janet is finally able to sit down for the interview.

    A few days away from 60 at the time of the interview, Janet Malpartida is spry and vivacious, an animated speaker who fills our lively conversation with sharp wit and laughter. She was often in trouble as a child, “for talking too much,” she confesses with a mischievous smile. When she was 12, her mother threatened to send her from their native Venezuela to the United States if she didn’t behave, and so it came to be that Janet learned Americanized English while staying with her uncle in Chicago. She stayed just long enough to learn the language and some of the culture but soon returned home after the devastating 1974 earthquake in Caracas.

    As Caracas rebuilt itself, Janet continued her studies and eventually graduated with a degree in tourism from the Instituto Universitario de Nuevas Profesiones. Her reputation as an excellent tour guide led to a colleague contacting her about an opportunity to work on a cruise ship, taking care of every need of valued passengers as they sailed around the world. She agreed and turned a two-week internship (during which that same colleague attempted to illegally pocket her pay) into 14 years of dedicated and acknowledged service aboard the Queen Elizabeth 2, a 1,777 passenger ocean liner based out of Southampton, England, with regular transatlantic service to New York as well as world cruises. Janet found her calling, taking care of her clientele while gaining an invaluable education with 64 countries visited and countless experiences gained. She was prized so highly by her employer that on the rare occasion that she took off in order to take her mother on a 42-day cruise around the Mediterranean, the top brass at headquarters refused to let her pay.

    When her husband died in a plane accident, Janet took her baby daughter to Florida where she met her current husband of 10 years. They eventually settled in Montgomery where Janet had the vision of creating a coffee shop. Her dream became more solid when her brother, who had followed the family to Montgomery a year later, agreed to do the construction for D’Road Café while his employer did the plumbing and Janet the art and decoration. At the time she set up the coffee shop two years ago, her daughter was in 8th grade and home schooled, now she is at LAMP and looking towards college. Janet figured that, “maybe if I sell this coffee, maybe it will give me enough money for my daughter’s future.”  

    One of Janet’s biggest challenges financially is to reach her capacity of 24 customers everyday for lunch and dinner. Culturally, Janet notes that people who like fried food are disappointed with her healthy home cooked fare, as are those who can’t wrap their head around the fact that neither she nor her food is Mexican. She says that some people who drop in don’t want to experience new things: they think they that since they know one “Mexican” place, they know them all. Janet uses fresh herbs and sea salt in her cooking, always buys the freshest meat and produce and tries to buy food that is organic and responsibly raised.

    After two years of surviving with no money behind her, sometimes she wants to close: a large catering order cancelled for a small operation like D’Road Café can be suicide, but Janet holds on to her unshakeable faith. Little by little she has been putting her business together, slowly adding to the menu and while she can’t say that she is currently turning a profit, all her equipment has been paid for and she makes enough to stay open.  She does not worry and she will not fear; her family and her bible class at Frazier help her to maintain her conviction to stick with her dream. Eventually she is looking to relocate to downtown or Old Cloverdale where she feels her unique offerings might be better received. She wants a better location but not necessarily a bigger space: she is determined to maintain an authentic Latin environment where she can sit and talk to her customers, get to know their favorite order and create dishes for them off the menu. As one Yelper described it, D’Road Café is like coming to your grandmother’s to eat, if your grandmother was Venezuelan.

    One thing Janet would love to see in Montgomery is more encouragement and activities for younger people. She notes that old ways are on their way out, slowly but surely, and that even though sometimes breaking into Montgomery society can be challenging when your name and parents are not legacy, she freely acknowledges that it is a much improved city compared to 10 years ago. What Janet loves about Montgomery is the peace. According to her, it’s the best place to bring your children up—you have a little taste of big city offerings, but you can still make family time because it is not all about consumerism. Sundays for her, when D’Road is closed, are family time and God time.

    Janet has several unique offerings for the city: she makes dishes from various Latin American countries such as Columbia, Chile and her husband’s native Peru. Every Friday she features a different country to invite customers on a culinary tour. The week we spoke, she branched out of Spanish speaking countries and chose Russian cuisine. No doubt her travels, diverse co-workers and clients aboard the Queen Elizabeth taught her various cooking traditions that she combines with her natural talent of making guests feel like family. For her, preparing food from scratch, with quality ingredients, no flour and no chemicals is not about being skinny or fat but the high risk of diabetes, heart attack, and other markers of poor health. Janet has no plans on leaving town any time soon, when asked how long she would stay in Montgomery she replied, “until I die.”

Visit Janet at D’Road Cafe Monday to Friday 9:00 am - 2:00 pm for breakfast and lunch, or 5:30 - 9:00 pm for dinner at 6250 Atlanta Highway (334-356-1563). Check out D’Road Café’s Facebook page for the featured country of the week on International Fridays.

Market Watch: Southern Sweetie Pies at The Curb Market

WORDS Katie Lindgren  PHOTO Luke Lindgren

I don’t know about you, but October marks the start of my favorite time of year.  The leaves are changing, the air is crisp, and many of my favorite fall traditions have begun.   Many people believe that when the weather changes and summer has come to a close, all the farmers markets have closed.  I am happy to tell you that is not the case.  Just because many of our favorite summertime vegetables are no longer in season does not mean that markets are closing up for the winter.  At the Montgomery Curb Market and Fairview Farmers Market there are still a lot of great things happening.  From now until Christmas, we will be taking a closer look at some of the vendors at the Montgomery Curb Market.  It is a covered building, all the walls open up, and the booths are defiantly old-fashioned. This place is a gem, and stepping inside has an air of stepping back in time.  If you have never visited the Montgomery Curb Market, take the time to stop by.  It’s very fun.  The market is located at 1004 Madison Ave, in historic downtown Montgomery.  It is open year round on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, from 6am - 2pm. 

I have to admit, I have a special interest in this market because I have a booth there.  I love gardening and I truly appreciate the hard work that goes into it.  But no matter how good my intentions are I cannot concoct the perfect tomato.  I love meeting farmers, too.  There is something about knowing where your food comes from, how it is grown and handled, that makes you feel better about eating.  Maybe it is all in my mind, but I swear it tastes better, too.  Southern Sweetie Pies (owned by myself, Katie Lindgren) specializes in Fried Pies.  Growing up my family always had fried pies at Thanksgiving.  I wanted to share that love with other people so I began making them.  I am new to the market and so far it has been a great experience.  I focus on made from scratch pies with seasonal fillings, and I hand make every single one of them.  When possible I try to buy my produce from farmers at the Montgomery Curb Market.  Every Saturday during fall I have apple, pumpkin, and sweet potato Sweetie Pies, and also bake blueberry, cherry, and peach during the spring and summer months.  Sometimes I get adventurous and try different fillings, but these are the six essential flavors that I make.
 
For updates and news you can find Southern Sweetie Pies on Facebook or on Instagram @SouthernSweetiePies.  Starting this month I will begin taking orders for Thanksgiving and Christmas at SouthernSweetiePies@gmail.com.

Meet Your Chef: Leonardo Maurelli, III of Central

WORDS Katie Vega

When you mix passionate Panamanian culture and convivial Southern hospitality, Chef Leo is what you get.  Born into a large Latin/Italian family, Leo moved to Daphne, Alabama at the age of 11 from Panama, where he began working in professional kitchens at the age of 14.  Chef Leo holds a degree in Hotel Management from Auburn University and has no formal culinary training (one of my favorite things about him). When I asked him how he does it, how he knows what to mix with what to create his masterpieces, he simply answered with this: "Ya just gotta take risks". 

ON LIVING IN THE SOUTH:  He puts it impeccably, comparing the South to an Indie band.  You know when you find an incredible Indie band that is underrated and overlooked and you want to tell every single person about the band because they are so good, but there's a part of you that wants to keep it to yourself, as if it was your newborn child? That's how Chef Leo feels about about Alabama.  Genius.  

ON EATING LOCAL:  The obvious is pointed out: it supports the local economy, is more nutritious, and it provides loyalty to our colleagues.  But it was Leo's deeper dip that sent me into an aha moment.  He yearns to preserve the farm to table heritage for his four-year-old son and refuses to allow it to become "the good ole days".  Couldn't have said it better myself, Chef.

ON CHALLENGES FACED AS A CHEF IN THE SOUTH: The South is assumed to be a close-minded society, and some of this fault is still evident in our culture, even when it comes to food.  To introduce new suggestions, Chef Leo progresses them into the menu incrementally and holds events like Leo's Table.  For occasions like Leo's Table, he removes the freedom of choice so patrons are forced to explore outside of their norm, opening their minds (and mouths) to whole new world of culinary experiences.

ON PLACES TO GO: Chef Leo resides in Auburn, Alabama and when he isn't working, he enjoys spending his time at home with his wife and son.  On the occasional night out, Leo enjoys dining at TRUE in Montgomery, ACRE in Auburn, and Springhouse on Lake Martin.  The Maurelli family also enjoys hanging out at Overall Company in Opelika and Chewacla State Park in Auburn.  

HIS GUILTY PLEASURES: Ham and Cheese Hot Pockets with Sriracha, cheesy 80s music (his exact words: "I can get down on that shit"), and Taylor Swift.

ESSENTIAL KITCHEN TOOLS: Mom's spoons, sea salt, cracked black pepper, garlic, and extra virgin olive oil.

THE PERFECT DINNER PARTY: Chef Leo would love to discuss creative processes with Salvador Dali, Picasso, and Beethoven.  What would they eat?  Easy.  Mom's meatballs.

CRAZIEST THING EVER EATEN: Lamb testicles.  He insisted he was not a fan.  

The fact that Chef Leo is one of the nicest, most genuine people I've ever met makes me like his food even more.  Knowing the passion and excitement that goes into his meals is like adding an extra spice to the mix, making it more dimensional and much more desirable.

I suggest dining at Central on Friday nights for Desde el Jardin  , where he uses fresh ingredients from the EAT South downtown farm to inspire the menu for the evening, ensuring a fresh, creative, and always delicious meal.  But get there early, as the specials always go fast.

If you're sitting at the bar, ask Big Justin to make you a Burning Mandarin (Absolut Mandarin, cranberry, orange juice, lemon, simple syrup, and two jalapeno slices) or a Bulleit Tea (Kentucky bourbon, lemon joice, and honey syrup).   

Like Chef Leo's Facebook page and follow him on Instagram (@chefleo3) to see him bring Desde el Jardin to life every Friday.  Or just to bask in his culinary (and personal) life. 

For more information on Leo's Table, Desde el Jardin, or Central's new fall menu, visit their website or call them at (334) 517 1155. 

MADE On Multi-Cultural Montgomery: Meet The Owners of La Coronilla

WORDS Natilee McGruder

The landscape of food in Montgomery is noticeably changing: there is Venezuelan, Jamaican, Korean, Mexican, Thai, Chinese and Indian food now available in a town where “meat and three” reigns supreme.  The food served in these restaurants acts as a gateway. For those from abroad who now call Montgomery home, the gateway opens to comfort, solace, the evocation of memories. For those from Montgomery, the restaurants are a gateway to cultural diversity, to new experiences and new memories, to people one would otherwise never meet. By exploring the people behind these restaurants, I hope that you might come to know them more personally and be inspired to step outside the culinary box when eating around town. While it’s simple to stay on the trail blazed by ease and familiarity, that path will lead you right past an upstart local gem like La Coronilla - meaning “the crown”.

Friends Apolonio Ramirez and Epifaunio Barrios own La Coronilla. Epifaunio (or Epi) runs La Coronilla on the service road (near Wares Ferry) that runs alongside the Eastern Boulevard, while Apolonio owns and runs El Chido, a Mexican tienda on Burbank Drive just a few miles away from the restaurant. Epi came to Montgomery in 1996 and has spent the past 17 years working hard to realize his dream of owning a restaurant. I walked into to La Coronilla and asked him if he wouldn’t mind telling me his story and that of his restaurant.

Epi’s story began in his home state of Guerrero, Mexico which has a deep influence on his particular brand of Mexican food - which is fresh, traditional and made from scratch in La Coronilla’s open kitchen. He came to the United States for work and ended up in Orosi, California doing backbreaking work as a field hand. He moved to Montgomery in 1996 and began cooking at the newly opened China Buffet which many long-time Montgomery residents will recall. After five years at China Buffet and five years at Lek’s Taste of Thailand, Epi had honed his skills in various culinary traditions but still heard the siren call of freshly made enchiladas con mole and pozole from his native Guerrero.
He has put those skills to work in La Coronilla, a place he decorated by hand with Mexican artwork and live plants. He stresses the freshness and his commitment to delicious traditional food that includes augas frescas (fresh juices), tamales, carnitas, various types of soups, as well as tacos with hand-patted tortillas made fresh daily by his sister. When I asked Epi what were the main challenges of owning his restaurant in Montgomery, he said that people don’t like “cebolla y cilantro”—meaning that people don’t want the fresh onion and cilantro (which, along with lime, complements most any authentic Mexican dish), they want cheesy, saucy, Americanized Mexican food. I told him that I didn’t think that was strictly true, but rather that the local culture of wanting to experience the familiar or making a selection through word of mouth can be limiting to new and “foreign” establishments.

When your friends, family and co-workers are not Korean or Mexican, don’t speak Korean or Spanish, and don’t frequent those restaurants, you are less likely to receive a recommendation and or get a wild hair to seek one out. La Coronilla has been in Montgomery for four years but according to Epi people are not as interested in 100% authentic Mexican food, although he hopes to change that. When I ask if he means that they seem to prefer Mexican food a la Taco Bell he shudders and affirms with a nod. He notes that he welcomes more residents and visitors to experience his version of the Meat and Three: various savory choices of meat or seafood with rice, beans and salad. Some of the Montgomery Crossfit community patronize his establishment and often order dishes off the menu that fit a paleo or primal-style diet, which generally excludes beans and grains. He even remarked that when a large group of them came by one weekend he made them Tom Yum soup by special request. Urbanspoon has highly favorable reviews of La Coronilla from some satisfied souls who have experienced Epi’s homemade food.

Epi has made his home and business in Montgomery and he plans to stay for the long haul. At this point, he says, he just needs a wife. He enjoys the calm way of life in Montgomery but thinks that we need more jobs. According to him, “Si no hay trabajo, no hay dinero y si no hay dinero no hay negocio.” Which means if there are no jobs there is no money, and without money, businesses like La Coronilla cannot survive.

Visit Epi at La Coronilla located at 425 Eastern Boulevard. Open from 9am-9pm, serving Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Wednesday to Monday (closed Tuesdays). On Thursday, Saturday and Sunday they serve pozole. Epi is happy to explain anything on the menu or create an order to meet you or your child’s needs. La Coronnilla is also on Facebook at LaCoronillaGrillCosinaMexicana.

The Market Watch: Farewell To Summer

A Farewell To Summer at Eastchase Farmers Market

WORDS Katie Lindgren  PHOTOS Jon Kohn

Oakview Farms This grain farm, based out of Wetumpka, Alabama, grinds their grain with an electric stone grinder at a slow rate, which produces a fine, delicate product.  They do not de-germinate their grains, so all the whole grain is fresh from the field, ground, packaged, and ready for use (store in the freezer as it does not have a shelf life). On market days, Oakview Farms sells whole wheat flour, cornmeal, grits, pancake mix, all-purpose flour, oats, hydroponic lettuce, and homegrown honey. Oakview Farms has a retail store on-site in Wetumpka, open Thursday, Friday, Saturday 9am - 4pm. www.oakviewfarms.com

Aunt Beez Delicious Desserts Brenda Sonner, the owner of Aunt Beez Delicious Desserts, is from Montgomery, and the creator of Pie Sauce.  According to Ms. Sonner, “It’s not a jam or a jelly.  It has less sugar, is thickened differently, and the result is a much fresher fruit taste.  It’s a great alternative to the gelatin goo found on grocery store shelves to make pies.”  This does make a delicious pie: simply pour into a pie shell and you have yourself a dessert.  Pie Sauce can also be used in breads, muffins, cakes and cookies.  Ms. Sonner sent me home with a fruit filled cupcake, and wow, it was delicious.  Aunt Beez’s Delicious Desserts will be all over the Southeast for holiday market shows.  auntbeez.com

Leo Vazquez Leo is from Tallassee, Alabama.  His booth is a colorful array of delicious homegrown vegetables.  From tomatoes and peppers to watermelon and cantaloupe, the Vazquez’s grow a little bit of everything.  It’s a 5-acre family farm run primarily by Mr. and Mrs. Vazquez.  They have a booth three days a week in Auburn and Opelika, and is at East Chase Farmers Market on Saturdays.

Leatherwood Nursery Elizabeth and Eric Leatherwood have a nursery in Shorter, Alabama with  a greenhouse operation where selling perennials, annuals, and ground covers.  The Leatherwoods strive to form relationships with their customers to make sure they get quality plants that fit the customers needs. While they don’t do landscaping, they do focus on container planting.  They will even  grow specific plants for customers. www.leatherwoodnursery.com

Bulger Creek Farm Kyle and Melanie Payne are the owners of Bulger Creek Farm, where they make local goat cheese made 100% with milk produced on-site .  Founded in 1998 on 80 acres near Notasulga, Alabama, the farm focuses on quality over volume, promising “no outside milk or curd will ever be used at this farm,” and turning out fromage blanc chèvre, goat cheesecakes, and goat milk.  You can catch Bulger Creek Farm on Saturday mornings through November at the Columbus  Market, or find their products in Montgomery at Health Wise Foods. www.bulgercreekfarm.com

Made By Melis: Peanut Butter & Chocolate Bars

WORDS & PHOTO Melissa Tsai

I’m one of those people who eats something delicious and immediately wants to go home and recreate it. And so I did, but not quite immediately. A couple of years ago, while traveling through  Hong Kong Airport (HKG), I picked up a chocolate/fruit/nut bar from a Starbucks. It was delicious and hearty. After studying the list of ingredients, I realized it was grain/wheat free and rather healthy. Save: it was mentally stored in my back of brain to make later. 

Fast-forward two years later to one random morning: I have a craving for something comforting and (ideally) healthy. Most of the time, these two things don’t come hand in hand. I raided my pantry and gathered a bunch of ingredients on the counter. Oh! There is nothing more comforting than the combination of peanut butter and chocolate. Spotting dates and almonds, it brought me back to that yummy breakfast bar I had in Hong Kong. The best part of this recipe is that it is no-bake.

Peanut Butter & Chocolate Bars

ingredients:
chocolate layer
1 cup dates, pitted
1 cup almonds
½ cup sunflower seeds
1 tbsp flaxseeds
¼ cup milk chocolate chips
½ cup unsweetened cocoa

peanut butter layer
½ cup dates, pitted
½ cup peanut butter
½ cup almonds
¼ cup sunflower seeds
1 tbsp flaxseeds

directions:
For the chocolate layer, mix the dates in a food processor until they come together in a ball. Remove and set aside. Then process the almonds, seeds, chocolate chips, and cocoa together. Add the dates back in and blend until the mixture is well incorporated. Add in a few more dates if the mixture is too dry.
Pour into a 8” x 8” pan lined with parchment paper. Using a spatula, press until you have a flat and even layer of chocolate mixture. Place in the freezer.
For the peanut butter layer, process the dates in a food processor (after cleaning it out). Remove and set aside. Then process almonds, and seeds together until it is a fine crumb. Add the peanut butter and dates and blend until the mixture is well incorporated.
Pour the mixture over the chocolate layer. Using a spatula, press until you have a flat and even layer over the chocolate mixture. Freeze for 20-30 minutes. Remove from pan and cut into squares.

Follow Melissa's blog at www.madebymelis.com 

Off The Beaten Path: Das Burger

WORDS David Mowery  PHOTO Bryan Carter

The lament of people who are hungry, yet missing key ingredients to make something, is best expressed by Smokey in Friday: “Y’all ain’t never got two things that go together. Cereal, No Milk; Kool-Aid, No Sugar; Ham, No Burger!”
And while Montgomery may be plagued by never having two things that go together, we are blessed with a deep bench of places to get a world class, gut busting, Bloomberg trolling, grease factory of a hamburger.
Elvis died 36 years ago, and there’s a reason he’s still known as The King. Here, Hamburger King has been around for years, and their moniker brings to mind the old saw “It Ain’t Braggin’ If You Can Back It Up.” Located on S. Decatur St., it’s a Montgomery institution. It does not disappoint. Cash only, and the type of dump you’d avoid in a city you didn’t know – this is the type of place “Off The Beaten Path” was built on.
I was introduced to Vicki’s Lunch Van by my fried The Late Great Joe Thomas, Jr. In addition to being an amazing musician, autodidact and renaissance man artist, he also liked to get lunch at the type of out of the way places featured in this column.
Though it’s now housed in an actual restaurant on Fairgrounds Rd. over by Montgomery Coliseum, Vicki’s was Montgomery’s Original Food Truck. Long before we needed a Development Department Contest and a newfangled truck, Montgomery had a van that served cooked-to-order hamburgers that are simple, fresh and delicious. Run by a mother-daughter duo, get there early or after the lunch hour if you have any hope of getting out in under 45 minutes – but like the best things in life it is actually worth the wait.
Not to be outdone by Montgomery’s homegrown hamburger establishments, Five Guys Burgers and Fries is pretty much The New Maniac Tough Guy In Town when it comes to the American Burger Scene. Founded in Alexandria, VA in the late 90s, it has become one of the most profitable and fastest growing burger chains in the country. We try to stay local and off the beaten path here at Made, but there’s no denying Five Guys puts out a consistent, killer product, quickly and cheaply. An anchor in the Starbucks’ shopping center on Zelda, along with Chicken Salad Chick and Ted The Wine Guy, Five Guys (and the neighboring Starbucks) represent mass-market product that gets the stamp of approval.
Most of the above places will cost you $10 or less for lunch, and don’t serve booze. While I’m often skeptical of the “Gourmet Burger” trend at high end restaurants or steakhouses, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention The Railyard Brewery downtown and The Chophouse at Vintage Year’s offerings.
The Railyard refurbished the old Montgomery Brewpub space and features locally brewed beers and numerous takes on burgers. From beef to pork to lamb, the beers and the burgers compliment each other nicely (see photo above).
The Chophouse burger is another level altogether. It’s a classic steakhouse, you can get a martini, and they’ll crack an egg on top for you to boot. Plus if you want to cut down on the massive amount of calories brought in to the equation by fries, you can get a salad.

If you have a favorite place not mentioned here, let us know and we’ll put it on the ever growing list of places Off The Beaten Path.

Fridays At Central: Desde el Jardin y el Mar

WORDS Caroline Rosen

Downtown Farmer Jetson Brown pilots his green Regions Bank bike through the traffic of downtown Montgomery, dodging cars and well-wishers in equal measure. It’s Friday, time for E.A.T. South to make its weekly delivery to Executive Chef Leonardo Maurelli at Central. A few months ago, Leo started a new Friday tradition for Montgomery: he takes delivery of vegetables from E.A.T. South and creates a meal built around the locally sourced produce. Leo has no idea what he will get before Jetson arrives, and has only a few hours before dinner service to come up with a menu and get cooking.
          
 “It’s invigorating,” Leo said in an interview last week, “it takes me back to my 20’s when I was a food geek who couldn’t wait to explore ingredients and put my hands on new food.” Leo, whose roots are in Panama, refers to these dinners as “desde el jardin y el mar,” translated as “meals from farm and sea.” In addition to the fresh produce he receives from E.A.T. South, Leo orders day-fresh fish and shellfish from Destin Connection, with as much from the Gulf as possible.
          
 Leo shares the entire process on Instagram (chefleo3), from delivery to finished product. First, Leo takes pictures of the produce once it arrives from E.A.T. South. Then he puts together a list of all the ingredients he has on hand, starting to think through combinations, then dishes. Finally, Leo shares the menu through social media, including his inspirations for each dish. Leo has given credit to family members, mentors and others as the dishes come together in his mind. Leo “wants people to feel like they are walking through the process with me,” and he takes pictures of the product “so people can see the food and be as excited as I am about the dinner as it happens.” Following Leo’s pictures, you almost feel like you are walking around in his imagination, a peak into the way a chef’s brain works.
           
Each week the menu is different, and Leo does not want to have a formula. Some nights there can be three courses, some nights five, but each course is available a la carte. While normally a garden and sea dinner would be something a restaurant would put together on a Tuesday or a Wednesday - mainly as a way drum up business on a slow day - Leo decided to host these dinners on Friday. “Rather than make the benefit one-sided and all for Central,” Leo says, “I wanted to give these ingredients the stage on Friday when the dining room is already busy.” By having these dinners on Friday, Leo can showcase the quality of the ingredients to a packed house, and as far as Leo is concerned, “the more people that learn about the important work being done at E.A.T. South, the better.”
           
Leo’s dinners show how a partnership between chef and purveyor can grow into an amazing tradition. Look for garden and sea dinners for the rest of the summer; each week will bring different vegetables and seafood for Leo to combine into a memorable meal.
www.central129coosa.com Call: 334 517 1155

Made By Melis: Summer Berry Tart

Tarts and pies are my latest summer obsession. They are versatile, easy, familiar, and can always be eaten with a scoop of ice cream. What more can you ask for? One of my first memories of fruit tarts are from a Japanese bakery where my family had breakfast every Sunday during my childhood. The tarts were perfectly round and topped with blemish-free fruit glistening with shiny, sugary glaze. Sandwiched between the crust and fruit was a creamy, sweet custard. From then on, I’ve had a soft spot for fruit tarts. I eat them so often at bakeshops that I realize I’ve never actually made my own. So after 30-something years, here is my first fruit tart with pastry cream.  The best part of this recipe is each component can be eaten on its own. The shortbread crust is the perfect balance of sweetness and butter. The custard is creamy and tangy. And there is no need to state why fresh summer berries are awesome. But why would you eat them separately if you have all three on hand?

summer berry tart recipe

crust ingredients:
1 ½ cups all-purpose flour
⅓ cup confectioner’s sugar
¼ tsp salt
1 stick (8 tbsp) very cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 large egg

crust directions:
In a food processor, pulse flour, sugar and salt together. Add butter pieces over the dry ingredients and pulse until the butter looks like crumbles. Add in the egg and pulse until it comes together into a ball. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and chill for 4 or more hours.
To roll the dough: Butter a two 6.5 inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom. Roll out chilled dough on floured surface to 8-inch round, lifting and turning dough occasionally to free from surface. Place the dough into the tart pans. Seal any cracks in dough. Fold any extra overhang in, making the sides thicker. Pierce crusts all over with fork.
Freeze the crusts for at least 30 minutes, preferably longer, before baking.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Put the tart pans on a baking sheet and bake the crusts for 20 to 25 minutes.
If the crust has puffed, press it down gently with the back of a spoon. Bake the crust about 10 minutes longer or until  golden brown.

pastry cream ingredients:
½ cup milk
2 large egg yolks
1 tbsp corn starch
4 oz cream cheese, softened
2 tbsp unsalted butter, softened
⅛ tsp salt
½ cup confectioner’s sugar

pastry cream directions:
Bring ¾ of the milk in a saucepan to a low simmer over medium heat.
In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, cornstarch and the remaining milk.
Remove the milk from the stove and add the hot milk to the yolk mixture to warm it, whisking constantly to keep the yolks from cooking. Pour the mixture back into the saucepan and return the custard to the stove. Bring to a boil, whisking constantly. Cook for 1-2 minutes until it thickens. Remove from heat and allow to cool.
With a hand mixer, blend the cream cheese, butter, salt, and vanilla together. Add the custard and sugar. Blend until the ingredients are well incorporated and the custard is smooth.

to assemble:
Divide up the custard between the two tart shells. Top with fresh berries of your choice. Garnish with chopped nuts. Serve immediately after assembling.

Off The Beaten Path: South of the Border, In Montgomery

WORDS & PHOTOS David Mowery

On the night of our first “real date” I declared to my future wife “I don’t like Mexican Food.” My wife is from Texas, where Tex-Mex is a way of life. This is not the only reason she would have had for immediately dropping me like a bad habit, but given her upbringing it would not have been an unreasonable reaction.

Granted this was the type of Mexican restaurant with a menu based around white cheese dip, ground beef and watery Margarita specials. There are many of these establishments in Montgomery, and they all seem to thrive. We ran a perfectly good joint out of The Alley downtown for not giving out free chips and salsa, and there’s typical other places in every strip mall between Ann Street and Shorter.

For the capital of a state that passed “The Strictest Immigration Law” in the country (still tied up in those pesky Federal Courts), Montgomery sure has its share of Mexican restaurants. There’s high brow, locally-sourced, high end beers and margaritas at El Rey in Cloverdale. You can get family-friendly and good middle brow food, great service and cold beer at La Zona Rosa on Zelda Road. If you go try the Banda Mexicana dip –seriously. And then there’s the type of “authentic” Mexican restaurants that foodies like our discerning readership want to seek out. The kind with day laborers and contractors sipping Horchata (queue Vampire Weekend) and Saturday menudo specials – con tripé!

The first such establishment I was aware of is El Cantaro Mexican on Ann Street across from the Wal Mart and next to The Money Store. On our recent visit they had significantly expanded the dining room and the menu. They offer both run of the mill “Mexican Food” and also “authentic” fare - I had Pork Carnitas Gorditas, which were excellent, though lacking a certain grit that you find out on Troy Highway.

Be forewarned, while exploring The Real Taquerias of Troy Highway, no matter how Hail-Fellow-Well-Met you may be in everyday life, most of these places will not recognize, or even appear to appreciate your patronage. You will get past the perceived rudeness when you tuck in to a plate of Tacos Campechinos – beef and chorizo – with a full platter of toppings and three different sauces at Taqueria Los Primos, or Lengua Tacos at Taqueria Vallarta. While most of these joints can be a little sketchy or unwelcoming, Taqueria Vallarta is a breed apart - housed in gas station with owners of Middle Eastern decent, staffed by a tattooed and be-weaved woman, and patronized by the type of folks who buy porn DVDs while popping in for a pack of blunts – and people like you who love tacos.

Troy Highway tends toward Taquerias, which are more in line with the Street Food ethos, but La Coronilla is a sort of split-the-difference between these other places. Located across from Twain Curve on Wares Ferry Road, and run by a nice guy named Epifario. He cooks amazing molé with whatever fresh fruit he has available, and also let us know: “if you know something you want to try, not on menu, just tell me, I make.” 

Our party ran the gamut of enchiladas –which were spiced pork, not wrapped, and with a plate of warm corn tortillas – to bone-in chicken with molé, tortas and even posole – which comes in red and green varieties. All were deemed excellent, and the molé and enchiladas will merit many a return trip.

Despite almost ruining my chances with a  beautiful woman over what I thought Mexican Food entailed, I can report that I’m happily married and have eaten my way across town. Montgomery has enough Mexican restaurants that you could plausibly eat at a different one each day of the week for a month and never repeat yourself. The inherent contradiction of a place that wants all Mexican “Job Destroyers” thrown out, but can’t live without those sweet, sweet tacos is yours to ponder – but I do recommend venturing off the beaten path of No Way Jose and their ilk once in a while and get outside your comfort zone, vibe La Migra, and eat some cow tongue or pig intestine. It certainly worked out for me. 

Recipe: Chef David Bancroft's Beet Hot Sauce

Serve with Southern tacos or tamales.
Yields 6 pint-size Mason jars.

2 roasted beets, chopped
1 diced medium red onion
8 crushed garlic cloves
2 chopped red bell peppers
4 chopped cayenne peppers
2 cups water
2 cups red wine vinegar
1 1/4 tbsp kosher salt
1 tablespoon paprika
1 tablespoon chili powder
1/2 tablespoon ground cayenne
1 teaspoon ground cumin
Add all veggies except beets to medium sauce pot and set to medium high heat. Place lid on pot to allow veggies to steam. Cook for five minutes. Add water, beets, spices and cook with lid on for 15 minutes. Remove lid, add vinegar and cook with lid on for 5 minutes. Remove from heat, puree in blender until smooth. Strain sauce through a fine mesh colander. Pour hot sauce into bottles to serve or pressure seal in mason jars for longer storage.

From August 2013 Issue 04